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Thread: Crown & Sword in Wedgeless G10
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04-01-2012, 12:25 AM #11
Those scales are truly outstanding. Congratulations.
"Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain
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Zephyr (04-01-2012)
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04-01-2012, 12:42 AM #12
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Thanked: 30I don't understand...what do you mean by flex? What is flexing? How does a wedge provide more flex where a less-substantial spacer wouldn't? I'm trying to picture what you're talking about I can't, mainly because I just don't have the experience. But I look at this razor pictured up above and I would imagine that it would flex more because there's less material to "stiffen" it. How is that wrong?
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04-01-2012, 12:50 AM #13
The problem I found was to manage to hold the spacer firmly enough, it's so tiny it's hard to hold on to and it kept rotating while trying to sand it to a wedge shape, maybe if you have a small enough plier you can hold it firm enough to file it to a wedge shape.
It's stong for sure, but I like working with G10, it's quite easy to work with despite it's strenght, except that it eats saw blades for breakfast.Need help or tutoring? Check out the .
Rune
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04-01-2012, 01:12 AM #14
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Thanked: 247Well, I think the scales look great. I do like a well done razor, so long as everything functions well. Put this one through some heavy duty useage and we'll find out if this really cool looking design will hold up. In the meantime, it looks really cool, and you've got the skills to put in a new one however often it may or may not need to be done. I'm still working on a good way to make a regular wedge look right, so I won't be trying anything like this for many years I suspect. Anyways...+ 1 , great job, well done!
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Zephyr (04-01-2012)
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04-01-2012, 01:36 AM #15
Thanks, I have no doubt it will hold up just fine, it's just as stable as with a regular wedge, at least with the G10.
On the other hand I don't think this type of spacer would work very well with a softer material as acrylic or horn, the surface of the spacer will be to small I think.
I had a lot of try and fails before I found a good way to make wedges, I don't remember where I saw it, but using a piece of double sided tape gives a good grip to the small pieces and makes it easy to apply the right pressure to shape it the way you want. Having a belt/disc sander also makes it a whole lot easierNeed help or tutoring? Check out the .
Rune
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04-04-2012, 06:59 PM #16
I like the open ended "wedgeless" look. Very well executed too.
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Zephyr (04-04-2012)
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04-04-2012, 07:11 PM #17
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Thanked: 94man that is a pretty razor...those scales are sick
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Zephyr (04-04-2012)
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04-05-2012, 05:48 AM #18
She's looking hot! great looking razor, love the scales and the set up with the open tail with just a spacer.
Jamie.
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Zephyr (04-05-2012)
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04-07-2012, 12:20 AM #19
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04-07-2012, 02:50 AM #20
Not answering for Glen but I'll have a go at this. Unless you pull em apart & put a few together it can be hard to understand.
By its nature a wedge splays the scales apart when first pinned up. When the blade is then pinned the extra tension supplied by the splayed tips compensates for the taper in the tang & also creates a slight bow in the scales. If an even width spacer is used & the tang is fairly thick at it's widest point it will jam in the scales if the thinnest point is adequately tight e.g. when the razor is opened.
The misconception is that razors simply pivot like a pocket knife. They don't because as already mentioned the tang is tapered Open & close a vintage razor a few times & watch the movement in the scales at different points of travel. A non tapered spacer doesn't allow for that flexion.
btw . Cool looking scales ZephyrLast edited by onimaru55; 04-07-2012 at 02:55 AM.
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Zephyr (04-07-2012)