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08-06-2012, 02:27 PM #1
In all of the restorations I have done it is rare to find a pivot hole in a razor that would be considered 'sized correctly' and if we were to take apart razors we consider functioning properly I would expect that many, if not all of them have over sized pivot holes. If the size of the hole were an issue I believe that this 'issue' would have been address by the manufacturer's long before we got our hands on these razors. Put bushing in the holes if you like but I do not see any earned value for the effort other than to satisfy the restorer that all 'issues' were addressed. My take is "If it's not broke, don't fix it". the fact that a razor is being restored usually means that something was broke but I would venture a guess that the pivot hole was not the cause due to the fact that most razors have pivot holes in the same condition and they are functioning properly. The question now is "Does reducing the size of the pivot hole cause any future problems?". I don't know but having the blade float in the scales may aide in it's function.
“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Joed For This Useful Post:
Neil Miller (08-09-2012), spazola (08-06-2012)
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08-06-2012, 02:38 PM #2
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Thanked: 2027I agree, the blade should somewhat float in the shaft,but if it is elongated from years of wear that to me is an issue.
Do not want them clicking back and forth.
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08-06-2012, 03:07 PM #3
Another way to keep the tube from collapsing during cutting is to fill the void with a smaller rod, like putting a 1/16 rod inside a 3/32 tube. If you need to file or sand the bushing before installation, that little scrap of rod can also help keep the thing in the proper shape. The dremel cut-off wheel is still probably the best way to go.
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08-06-2012, 04:19 PM #4
Incredibly helpful, Gents. Thank You so much.
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08-06-2012, 05:58 PM #5
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Thanked: 13234Simple easy test for pivot holes I use.. to also answer the question of why bother..
If you are reusing the old scales or some like them, then you probably don't need to take in the slack because the scales have more then enough room for it.. However many of us that make custom scales out of synthetics or very stable materials take pride in a much tighter fit between razor and wedge, this no longer allows for that slop..
I NEVER drill them out first off, that just me, although I might de-burr the really bad ones
I have two sizes of brass tubes for filling them, the smallest most often used is 1/16 id x 3/32 od if it won't fit in the hole then it doesn't need a bushing IMO, I can build the scales within that tolerance.. If the tube fits into the hole then I cut it with a Jewelers saw and file to fit..
The next size of course is 3/32 id x 1/8 od and fits over the smaller one if needed on really bad holes I think I have used it maybe 10 times total out of quite a few restores..
Anyway like everything else in this hobby YMMV or in this case Your Tolerance May Vary
ps: Also keep in mind these holes are often not straight so make sure that when you use a tube/bushing that it is straight, btw that might cause more problems then you know because the older Sheffield razors that used the punch method of making the holes might not have a straight tang either hehehe see it really isn't so easy if you want things done right..Last edited by gssixgun; 08-06-2012 at 06:02 PM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
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08-07-2012, 12:02 AM #6
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Thanked: 3222Never thought of using tubing to bush a wonky hole. Just use some metal two part epoxy to fill it in and then drilled a new hole.
Bob