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Thread: 51 MG restoration.

  1. #631
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    A slide-hammer setup like so....
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    Some auto parts might have one to rent. The top puller with the screw works on older jeeps.
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  2. #632
    32t
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    That last puller was similar to my homemade redneck idea.
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  3. #633
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Great ideas gents thanks. Had to stop to eat.
    -7 C up here tonight so the shop is chilly even with the heater wailing.
    I have a 3 jaw puller but don’t want to risk snapping the hub grabbing its edges so will figure a way to make some straps to connect to the wheel studs, like a proper hub puller as Tom shows.
    My bearings I wish came out like in that video.
    I did try, but stopped short of snapping anything..
    Can’t use a slide hammer or too much jerking motion with it up so high on stands, gets kinda wobbly.
    If it gets cold enough, maybe a little oxy acety heat will let things just slip apart..
    Thanks again gents.
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  4. #634
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Puller worked as it should,
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    They were on there tight! Still need to press these out, then the seals, which was the reason i did this, can be pulled.
    The seals look bad even though the bearings feel good.
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    At least now I have part numbers to order too, and no threads damaged!!
    A Big hoo ahh to that!
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  5. #635
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Bit of an oh f- k moment tonight.
    While cleaning up the hubs I noticed one is pretty messed up on the side that takes the seal.
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    Already lookin online and ya think I could find a 57 Austin Cambridge rear wheel hub anywhere? Or any A40-50 series hubs?. Nope
    Here’s the quandary though, I didn’t damage this so it was running 50 years on a hammered hub. I’m thinking whoever changed the one seal in the 70s hit it with a sledge, or someth8ng heavy. Its a one piece casting machined out for the bearing and seal landings so I think it’s take more than just dropping it to do ths much edge damage.
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    Bearing rides on the red, seal on the green, and damage circled in blue.
    So I’m thinking maybe a new seal, not pressed all the way down will still work as the hub itself still runs true to 10 thou run out on the sides..
    Thoughts from my auto savvy cohorts?
    The damage is on the side that faces the differential, in case that’s not clear,,,
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  6. #636
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I assume the seals keep the diff fluid out and the bearing is packed with heavy grease?
    The machine shop could take it down flat again if the meat is there.
    Looks like someone bashed a bearing in there. Lesson to use thought when pressing new one in.
    Proper support will avoid that. Might be OK?

  7. #637
    32t
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    would that effect your camber or castor?

  8. #638
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Close, the seal keeps the diff fluid in actually. The bearing is exposed to the diff and axle shaft side and lubricated by the diff oil.. The seal keeps the fluid from leaking into the brake drum area and mates against the non rotating axle shaft.
    I was thinking maybe put it in the press with a tight fitting disk and maybe press it true again pressing from the inside out?
    Not worried about the dented inner lip so much as the flat landing the seal sits on. Technically that lip shouldn’t touch anything.
    Course fear of cracking it in the press is high and maybe leave well enough alone..
    Found lots of Austin Healy hubs, but they are smaller. 37mm I’d not 40 like mine.
    Last edited by MikeB52; 12-23-2020 at 11:58 PM.
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    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32t View Post
    would that effect your camber or castor?
    Rear wheel hubs in a fixed axle, so don’t think it’ll affect alignment.
    And I swear I don’t recall dropping them so am sure they ran like this, and ran tru-ish.. hard to really tell as she was never very smooth riding. Hehe
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  10. #640
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I assume the seals keep the diff fluid out and the bearing is packed with heavy grease?
    The machine shop could take it down flat again if the meat is there.
    Looks like someone bashed a bearing in there. Lesson to use thought when pressing new one in.
    Proper support will avoid that. Might be OK?
    If Tom and I are on the same page, yes a good machinist could build up the damage and then cut it down so it's even and the proper height so it would run true, also if the ID needed work to get everything running true.

    You are putting in a lot of time, money, effort and love into your project. A bit more might be advantageous
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