Thread: 51 MG restoration.

My experience with applying putty is limited to drywall,(where it is easy to leave low spots that are hard to notice until the paint is applied) Is there the same problem with body work?

With body work any blemish starts showing I. The high grit sanding then even worse during paint. I spent maybe 2 hours painting the tins on my bike. Prep was over a week

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Damn funny,, thx!

And that vid actually helped a bit with my application.
I was heating the base metal more than the solder, hence the runs vertically, and melting the lead via heat transfer.
Tried as he shows, melting the bar into globs that drop, then heating the base and smoothing everything out, way easier control.
I was even successful at reapplying and reworking some already applied, so that is possible.

Good share Roy, thanks..

Glad the video was of some help my friend. Bill sure did have a lot of knowledge for only being 30 years old

As far as I’ve learned along this journey, and before, plastic filler can and does shrink some as it cures, but you can account for that. Lead doesn’t shrink. Plastic filled panels can’t be dollied or bumped after fill without cracking, leaded panels can still be metal worked and won’t crack. Lead work is toxic to breath and the prep and application more stringent.
But I’m doing lead, taking precautions and putting in the effort to get better as I think it’s a better repair, long term.

Edit: if you look close in that video Roy posted you can see Bill constantly exhaling through his mouth to blow the fumes away as he works, I’d pass out and opted for a fan blowing across my work. Were it not for my chin fur I’d wear a respirator as well, but Bill does the huff n puff.. kinda old school bad ass, but not for me..

Wonder what happened with that Allmetal stuff that was all the rage? Ground metal mixed with bondo?

Twas rebranded and lives on under the Henkel umbrella.

Love the stuff. Worth every penny in industrial maintenance.
Truth be told, it’s what I’m using on the MG as glaze, or I intend too.

For the last 3 years I’ve been using Edge Evercoat body filler....can get you a part # later. This stuff sands like spackle ! It’s light weight...excellent adhesion....and sands like wall board compound..lol.. You sand it with 80 grit and finish with 180 or 220 before a 2K high build primer. You going to epoxy those panels first ...then apply the filler over the epoxy.. that’s the ticket.

Sounds like interesting stuff--

http://www.theevercoatedge.com/image...filler_pis.pdf

They are literally gluing cars together these days. These adhesives are amazing.
Seems there is a big three on these products. They buy up anything that's good.
Great for the product and the retirement of the developer.

Seems Mike is determined to go old school. Lead.


I invented something once. I forgot!

Oh yes, the technology with adhesives, fillers etc has really advanced.

Years ago I saw an article in "I think' Hot Rod Mag where they were showing a new adhesive used to glue metal panels together instead of using welding. Once the pieces were joined and allowed to cure they took a ball peen hammer to it and the metal tore before the adhesive let loose.

And yes Mike is going Old School, but if he is a bit short on the lead a skim coat of a quality filler is much better than many, many coats of primer/filler-------