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Thread: Alls Well that Anv-ells?

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  1. #1
    The First Cut is the Deepest! Magpie's Avatar
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    The markings on the anvil are 1-0-16 If I have done my homework correctly, thats 128lbs correct?

    Unfortunately, there is only a single farrier in the area that I know of, and from what I have heard, he knows less than I do!
    There are 2 other guys who are learning like me, and a single old fella who goes around posting in the local papers "wanted to buy" offers people 50 cents a pound and turns around and sells to guys like me for 4 bucks a pound.
    Here is a close up of one of the areas of concern. I have seen way worse, and its probably nothing, but god gave me ulcers, and who would I be to ignore his gifts and not worry at least a little?

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    Last edited by Magpie; 08-21-2013 at 04:32 AM.
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  2. #2
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Looking good. The chipped corners are to be expected. I was told by several smiths that you don't want crisp sharp corners anyway, because any slight misalignment of your workpiece would be stamped witha sharp line. And -surprise surprise- straight corners chip a lot harder than rounded corners

    Like Mike said, if someone could look at it in person, that would be great. But from the pic I can't tell anything wrong with it. But even if it had a divot here and there, that wouldn't matter. You'll find a use for them, for example when straightening things out. You also don't want to grind down the face, because the face is relatively thin. Less than an inch. So if you grind away half an inch to make it perfectly flat, you might go through the hardened plate, or it might become so thin it starts denting under your hammer. Making the plate too thin would turn your nice Peter Wright into a 300 pound paperweight, doorstop or garden ornament.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  3. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    IF you have a belt sander give that a try. I went at mine with the flap wheel on a 7" grinder and the belt worked easy to make it flat.
    I also kept mine mostly cool with water while sanding. Looks funny now all shiny on top and over 100 ever where else. I got a few more razors to restore and then when it cools down around here I will be using mine.

    You got a deal bud.
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

  4. #4
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Still wouldn't sand. The advice over at 'IforgeIron.com' is to just start using it, as nothing will get rid of rust as quickly as beatin some hot iron on the surface. And you get the benefit of not removing any metal. Making the surface of your anvil shiny does not make it work any better.
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    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  5. #5
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I don't have anything to say except for: SCORE!
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  6. #6
    "My words are of iron..."
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    From the close up, and I'm not a welder, but that looks like someone took an arc welder to the edge and tried to repair it by building it up. That is a very common type of repair. All you may need is simple to smooth out the corners and decide what radius you want to live with. Look on the ABANA website for a local affiliate group of blacksmiths. I don't believe you're nearly as alone as you might think.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Curious,were vintage anvils hardend at all?

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