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Thread: What do I have here?

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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Default What do I have here?

    Ever since I decided that I want one day to forge my own blade, I've been keeping my eye out for old files, etc., at antique stores. I know the easy (and possibly sensible) route would be to order a new blank, but I like the idea of turning an old file into a new razor.

    Yesterday I came across this and picked it up for a few bucks. And I have *no* idea what its intended use was. It is 18" x 1 3/4" x 3/8". The thing that has me a bit confused is the orientation of the raspy bits on the one side. I have never seen one with the two ends oriented differently like this, but then I don't know a whole lot about these things. The middle bit there is stamped "R Spence & Co". Any ideas?

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    Last edited by Cangooner; 09-22-2013 at 05:37 PM. Reason: pic layout

    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
    This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
    -Neil Young

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I have one of those, an old Stanley combination file. Very handy. Whether that is an earlier model by a different mfg or a Stanley product with the other guy's brand I don't know. You can still get the Stanley and , like I say, very handy.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth 10Pups's Avatar
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    Basic shop 101.... A file only works in 1 direction (usually while pushing away from you). If your motions are to hold the file on the work and reciprocate back and forth you are dulling your file as fast as you are using it. (most noticable on metal of course)
    I use mine with a leather glove on an if you ever use it and it stops mid stroke, you will see why.
    I have a couple of those rasps. I use them for shaping radius on wood projects. It takes material down fast. I have also used them on horse hoof when trimming.
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Leatherstockiings's Avatar
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    It reminds me of a farriers rasp.
    This is 14"x 1&3/4 x 3/16, not including tang. It has teeth on one side, file on the other. File on edges.
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    Last edited by Leatherstockiings; 09-22-2013 at 06:14 PM.
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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    I have one with the teeth all in the same direction. They go through wood like a knife hrough butter.
    I wouldn't forge it, because you'll hammer the teeth shut, and when you start grinding you'll discover lots of deep pockets of slag and scale. For stock removal it should be ok after annealing.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Common wood rasp.would doubt that it is very hard

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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    I have one with the teeth all in the same direction. They go through wood like a knife hrough butter.
    I wouldn't forge it, because you'll hammer the teeth shut, and when you start grinding you'll discover lots of deep pockets of slag and scale. For stock removal it should be ok after annealing.
    Thanks for all the replies guys.

    Bruno - since it's thicker than I would like (for the size I'd like to make, somewhere closer to 1/4 is probably better than 3/8 which I imagine would require a bit of a beast to get the angles right) I was thinking of annealing, then grinding down the side with the teeth to get past those pockets, and then forging. I realize that would be creating a bunch of extra work for myself, but I'm just doing this for fun, so that's OK with me. But would that work?

    I think the other thing that threw me about this file is that the teeth (on both sides) are incredibly dull. I'm doing some rust removal at the moment, so I'm curious how sharp it will be afterwards. I know that like any tool, files will dull with use, but from the profile of the teeth, I have a hard time imagining this thing would be as effective as has been suggested. I've used a fair few wood files and rasps in my time, but I haven't seen one quite like this before.

    Always nice to learn about a new tool though.

    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
    This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
    -Neil Young

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I was thinking it was a farriers rasp/file. Honestly, i would find a traditional metal working file.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Farrier's rasp fo sho.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cangooner View Post

    Bruno - since it's thicker than I would like (for the size I'd like to make, somewhere closer to 1/4 is probably better than 3/8 which I imagine would require a bit of a beast to get the angles right) I was thinking of annealing, then grinding down the side with the teeth to get past those pockets, and then forging. I realize that would be creating a bunch of extra work for myself, but I'm just doing this for fun, so that's OK with me. But would that work?
    Yes that would work fine. The main thing is that you get rid of the pockets that will become inclusions.
    If you grind away the teeth and the divots, then you have a nice piece of rectangular stock that you can work with.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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