Thread: Need input on this buffer(Foredom)

I'll go take a look at it tomorrow, I have a handful of junk blades lying around but I think I'll wait a month or two until spring starts approaching since it's not very fun to work outside when you only have a few hours of sun.

PM randydance062449 - he has a mini-lathe set up that works really well. There is a thread somewhere here that shows it.

Did dome digging and found 'em, thanks.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ng-razors.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-finished.html

Dig a little deeper, or PM Randy. He also has one he made for his mini lathe. He uses wood discs, wrapped with double sided tape, and then sandpaper. I have something similar, but his is better. I used 3/8th threaded rod. 1/2 would be better. Drill a small hole in one end to fit the live center. Chuck the other end in a drill chuck. Install the wood discs between 1/2 inch nuts. Sorry, no photo - and it's buried under several projects I'm working on.

Found it!
razor-restoration-sander
Enjoy, it works well!
~Richard

I just sent a pm to randydance.
Well, here's what I'm working with, I think it could do.
Pics:

It will do very nicely! Plenty of length and that is a very nice positive!
That spud/driver is removable.
You may find a taper shank adapter at a machine tool supply house:

~Richard

Hello

May I suggest that you first decide if you want to buff or sand. The sanding requires a much lower RPM...approx 400 rpm. Using 800 rpm might will be a challenge for sanding.

When your restoring a 9/16" German hollow ground blade ( bi-concave) the max sanding wheel diameter/size is about 1.75 inches. That is what will fit into the top hollow grind of the blade.

For the sake of simplicity of construction and the variability of speed selection and the ease of use I have decided that the tapered spindle approach is best.

Look at Charlie Lewis ( Spazola) setup here.......

Buffing Setup - YouTube

and mine...........

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-finished.html

Please note that to obtain a lower speed you will need a larger pulley on the shaft or a slower motor like 800 rpm instead of 1750.

Using a wood lathe requires more tooling ($) for the live center in the tailstock, a drill chuck or 3 jaw check in the headstock and the shaft must be reamed/bored on one end for the fit onto the tailstock. It is also advisable to mill a flat on the shaft so that set screws can be installed to hold the wheel in place on the shaft or use collars with set screws to hold the sanding wheel in place. You will also have to have the tools to make a round wheel that is bored out to fit your shaft. That will require that you have access to a metal lathe and the proper measuring, cutting and boring tools ( and skills to use them).
I will have to take some pics of my latest wood lathe setup to show you this if you wish.

Please remember that all of the above is about sanding, not buffing.
If you are going to buff with the above tapered spindle/shafts do not use wheels larger than 4" ( 100 mm) or centrifugal force will become a very serious problem. Keep the speed of the shaft at 1750 or slower if your using the extended/tapered shafts.

I'm more interested in buffing but I wouldn't mnd seeing some pictures.