Thread: Razor build + questions

So here's how it's been for old Cornicus lately.

Work. 3 hours of reading about razors. Sleep.

Repeat.

But.. Today (or yesterday), the stars aligned, and I had a completely free Saturday. I went antiquing, picked up a 1.5" leather belt for making a few hanging strops, and all was well. It was a pretty day out too, so I sat outside and sketched a few knives and a few razors to think about making.

I came across a design from the depths of my "meat-chopper" lusting mind, and decided that it was time to attempt my first hollow ground straight razor..

So here goes.

I started out with some CRA 1095 from Admiral Steel (at the time, 6' for $45. BINGO!). Cut it out - thank the Lord for air tools - and began the grinding process. 80 grit was a little too fine, and I could barely get a pass in without the steel singing my fingertips. So I switched to 36 grit. What a nasty nasty cutter you are. About two or three hours later, grinding is done, I start to file the tang in the shape that I want. I'm thinking something.. Skeletal. I love the look of vertebrae, especially in something as grim as a big ol' honking razor.. So I gave it a shot.

Tomorrow (or today rather), I will attempt heat treatment, hoping to the Big Man that the 3/128" edge thickness doesn't warp. Thinking about sanding the blade to 800 grit before HT, then wire wheeling after to blast away the residual scale and crud, then just leave the blackened tang and temper colors alone. If I wanted a refined, dainty little razor - it wouldn't be an 8/8. 8/8's are for manly men!

Here's the process from start to where I am now.







By the way, the grinder is a Kalamazoo 2x48. Haters of the 2x48 can hate, but for the money, you can't beat it. Baldor motor, 5" contact wheel, horizontal and vertical.. Groovy.

Question time -

Is 3/16 stock too thin for an 8/8? I read about the 4:1 ratio, but also read that it can be worked around, just honing is a little more difficult..

Significant risk of heat warpage with a 1/64"-3/128" edge thickness?

Should I do a standard knife tempering process for 1095? IE: harden as always, then 400F for 1 hour?

Thanks!
-Josh

PS: for anyone wondering what ungodly process I did to my steel in the first pic, here goes..

Dykem layout dye -> spray adhesive and paper template -> white spray paint -> peel off paper -> coat of heat-resistant clear coat. It holds up well to heat, dipping in water, grinder chipping, and solvents. Also stays highly visible.

PPS: ..I don't know how I managed.. But I sliced my finger something terrible while sanding the barber's notch.. I feel like it's the old girlfriend telling me to stop fiddling with my razors and get to bed..