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Thread: Work Hardened Steel Is No Bueno
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01-17-2017, 08:59 PM #1
100% correct - but I didn't grind it holding with gloves. I had to use a 200Lb (strength) hand held magnet. That was enough to get past the stainless and magnetically pull the high carbon steel enough to keep it sticking to the magnet. I use that, because very much hate burning my hands during pre-heat treat grinding. I figure that heat is not really a problem until after temper. That's when the gloves come off and I grind bare handed, to make sure I don't get things so hot they lose temper. Prior to that? I'll grind until flames shoot out! (lol!)
The stainless is a 403. I picked that, as it forges pretty darn well. It won't harden when I heat treat the blade. I'll be hardening to the 1095, and won't be getting the steel hot enough to harden the 403.
Annealing is done in a kiln with pyrometer - taken to 1575, then slow cooled for the next 12 hours. I had a few billets in with it - I'll see how those cut later this week and if they hardened, that that will be the culprit!
I'm thinking though, that perhaps the initial drill may have hardened just the hold. That bit was a cobalt and I was wrenching on it. Kept having to add cutting oil as I was drilling, until that bad boy snapped. The other four bits are cheapo backup bits I keep around for when I kill a cobalt to have something on hand as I wait for the replacement. It's a good possibility I did it to myself in just the drilling...
Just finished the initial rough grind of the razor at 36 grit - You can see how hot I get the core steel before temper here. You can see there the 1095 is darkening, and the stainless has not discolored.
I think I'm leaning towards perhaps the initial drilling hardened it. Even with the magnet, I just could not imagine the steel getting hot enough to austenitize. That thought was blowing my mind, for sure.
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01-17-2017, 09:24 PM #2
If the steel austenitized, it would be non magnetic. I'm thinking that some big carbides formed at the 1095/stainless interface.
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JohnGlueck (01-17-2017)
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01-17-2017, 10:19 PM #3
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01-17-2017, 11:02 PM #4
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Thanked: 995Yeah, all that chromium just loves to form carbides. It's so common for the hole to work harden though. From your description of drill bit performance that's what I'd think too. Stick with the simplest solution.
Holding with a magnet will work, until the steel becomes non magnetic, and it should have took off across the room when it let go. That'd be hot enough to quench to hard. Doesn't sound like that happened though.
It looks like you got a great weld, pretty stuff for sure.“Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll
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01-19-2017, 01:36 AM #5
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Thanked: 1936Nothing to add, but would love to see your "tutorial " on how you forge weld the two. We always love to see stuff like that.
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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JohnGlueck (01-19-2017)
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01-19-2017, 04:02 PM #6
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MikeB52 (03-19-2017)
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01-19-2017, 07:25 PM #7
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Thanked: 1936One of these days I'll get an electric oven so I can mess with stainless, I've always worked off gas.
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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The Following User Says Thank You to ScottGoodman For This Useful Post:
JohnGlueck (01-20-2017)