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Thread: Gas forge for heat treating?

  1. #31
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spazola View Post
    A forge and a muffle are a great way to heat treat. Victors pile of bricks and muffle is one of the most versatile and adaptable ways to make a forge. A more standard forge will also work. A propane forge with a muffle is a great option, there are lots of ways to get the job the done, it is technique that matters not so much which tool you use.

    I mostly made my heat treat for the meet and because I like to tinker.

    Here is how I build my burners, https://youtu.be/9u5URUHZhGs When I am sticking the burner in a forge I omit the flare. when I am using outside the forge I add the flare.

    An ebay meter and a thermocouple will work for the temp it does not have to be installed like mine. The more important thing is to learn to see the transformation of the steel as it becomes critical. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...FiDd60Sz_eXtRl
    You think it better to set it up same as your ht forge and just punch a hole in the back of the forge and line up a flared burner to shoot into that hole? Or can I just connect a burner with no flare to the back and still keep temps low enough to ht?

    Awesome video of building a burner one of the better ones I’ve come across. Also have watched your video on recalescence. So the darker area is boundary between perlite and martensite?
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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfk742 View Post
    Also have watched your video on recalescence. So the darker area is boundary between perlite and martensite?
    Pearlite and austenite. The transition from ferrite/pearlite to austenite is endothermic and the transition from austenite to ferrite/pearlite is exothermic. Pearlite is a layered structure of ferrite and cementite, hence the ferrite/pearlite. Martensite forms when austenite is cooled below the martensite start temperature ~425 F or so.
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    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    I need to find that book you two showed me. Much to learn....
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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluesman7 View Post
    Pearlite and austenite. The transition from ferrite/pearlite to austenite is endothermic and the transition from austenite to ferrite/pearlite is exothermic. Pearlite is a layered structure of ferrite and cementite, hence the ferrite/pearlite. Martensite forms when austenite is cooled below the martensite start temperature ~425 F or so.
    I am starting to get it, Vic!
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Speedster's Avatar
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    I found my materials science pre-engineering course at the U of Washington extremely difficult back in the day.

    Thank FSM I have no good reason whatsoever to commit this esoteric, metallurgic information to my reachable, long term memory.

    --Mark

  7. #36
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfk742 View Post
    I need to find that book you two showed me. Much to learn....
    It's a free pdf. You can print it if you want paper. I did
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    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    It's a free pdf. You can print it if you want paper. I did
    I need some more ink for my printer, definitely cheaper than buying one, I found some hardbacks for sale and they were well north of $200
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    This is the book in case anyone was wondering (Charlie’s copy).
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  12. #39
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    I have a couple of 20lb propane tanks laying around, do you guys think the volume will be large enough assuming a muffler large enough for a chefs knife in diameter?

    I’ve been looking at omega pyrometers and was thinking a 12” probe would work well, I’d drill a hole on the capped end of the muffler and insert it length ways from the back end of the forge, do you see any issues with that?

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    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    Is there a place you guys like to order ceramic wool and bricks from? Thinking buying bulk as opposed to what I need right would save me some money in the long run.

    I found some post anvil stock. After pricing out what a block of 4140 would cost I think I’m just going to pick up a 4x4x4 block already ht’d from old world anvils. Though I do have a scrap yard down the street from me, can I just walk around and hit things with a hammer and just grab whatever rings the best instead?

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