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04-03-2019, 07:11 AM #1
I'm sorry, 5 to 10 seconds? Did you have coffee first?
I know knives let you get away with that sort of thing because they have a lot of thermal mass.
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that is much too long. I try to keep this time as short as I possibly can: out of the kiln and into the quench in 1 fluid motion that takes a second or so.
A razor has a very low thermal mass. Especially if it is already much thinner than is good, I can pretty much guarantee that this right here is your problem.
A razor's edge works like a thin cooling fin. By the time you hit your quench it was already far too cold.
None whatsoever in terms of end result. The only risk you run is with san mai blades that have a lot of stress in them after quenching.
If you leave those sitting for 2 hours, there is a good chance your razor will become 2 piecesLast edited by Bruno; 04-03-2019 at 07:14 AM.
Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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04-03-2019, 02:42 PM #2
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Thanked: 7Subscribed....this is really interesting stuff....im sorry i have nothing to add but im here to learn!
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04-03-2019, 03:51 PM #3
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Thanked: 2209You have received some pretty good info here.
The general rule is that 4:1 ratio of blade width to spine thickness. Greater than that and the edge crumbles while honing because it has lost carbon while heat treating and it is to thin while honing.
Use a meat thermometer inside the toaster oven to set the desired temp.
You have about 1 second to go from the forge/kiln to the quench. Practice/adjust your setup/layout before you start
The edge of the blade should be about the thickness of a dime or more before heat treating. It means more work while finish grinding but you get better steel as an end result.
and you avoid the "potato chip" edge.
Just my 2¢Last edited by randydance062449; 04-03-2019 at 04:08 PM.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin