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Thread: Forging Frame Back razor... fixed or removable blades?

  1. #11
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    That is really imaginative shop work, and the razor looks cool!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    I pinned the blade to the frame with 1/16 brass rod, I counter sunk a little bit then peened and draw filed. The blade is about .040, it is a piece of an old hand saw. The blade sticks out of the frame between 5/8 and 3/4. I tapered the blade so that the bevel would not be too large. If I sharpen with tape on the spine it comes out to about 15.5 degrees.

    So far I have had two shaves the first was mediocre because of my sharpening. The second was a good but not a great shave. I think one or two trips to the hone and I will have it dialed in. It looks promising.

    If the razor holds up and performs well I will finish it proper and make a decent set of scales. I will also bed the blade in epoxy to seal out the water, it rusts really fast.

    I am really excited about shaving with something that I made. If I were a kid I would stick to the refrigerator with a big ole magnet.

    Charlie
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  3. #13
    Senior Member smythe's Avatar
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    Those scales are good for a what i think is temporary scales... gives it a "rustic" look.
    The detailing on that razor is damn good... for a prototype.

    Yes it looks like you will have to seal the joint...
    If all goes well you may want to remove the blade and pour epoxy in the slot then seat the blade before it cures and re-pin for good measure. You may even wipe the exes epoxy along the joint to form a nice radius... (like grout between the corner tiles).

    Old hand saw blade... now that sounds like good source stock for my ebay frame back... I know i have one in my tool box... thanks for the hint.
    Last edited by smythe; 06-16-2008 at 01:17 AM.

  4. #14
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    No I work with silver and not steel so this might not be an option, but what if you set something in the middle and folded the steal over to create the channel. does that make sense or do I need to open paint?

  5. #15
    Senior Member tjiscooler's Avatar
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    I think that might work, it its flat and soft you can hammer it around the "blade" portion, you would have to harden and temper it too though, or it will grind away too fast while honing.

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Nice style for the prototype!
    Thank you for a great showing of how-to. I am interested in frameback technique. I have a Swedish 4/8ths that has a 1/16th blade full length and a "C" cross section thin spring steel clip over and along the spine.
    ~Richard
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    - Oscar Wilde

  7. #17
    Bladesmith by Knight Adam G.'s Avatar
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    i must clarify that i have not made a frameback, but when making knives the best way to seal between two pieces of metal is silver solder. You do this after heat treat, use a low temperature silver solder and go carefully. Should be accomplished without damaging the hardness of the razor edge.
    32t likes this.
    Respectfully,
    Adam.

  8. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    I have some experience with silver brazing for cutting tools to be hardened, often O-1 tool steels. I would suggest that the razor be brazed with IT grade or a braze that melts/flows at ~@1500-1800ºF prior to heat treat. That being done with a torch and the insert blade directed up with a fixture to assure the insert stays in place and heat applied to the frame till red and then to the insert also starting at one end, continue the heat till the other end of the insert is reached. Then any goof with the heat of the torch will not negate the temper. The silver solder will have a higher melting point after the joining. A poorly applied heat source over 300ºF can really travel through a thin section and draw the temper. Most silver bearing eutectic bismuth/lead solders do their work at 400-700ºF.
    I would like to hear any suggestions why this would not work
    ~Richard
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam G. View Post
    i must clarify that i have not made a frameback, but when making knives the best way to seal between two pieces of metal is silver solder. You do this after heat treat, use a low temperature silver solder and go carefully. Should be accomplished without damaging the hardness of the razor edge.
    Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
    - Oscar Wilde

  9. #19
    Senior Member justinA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spazola View Post

    I am really excited about shaving with something that I made. If I were a kid I would stick to the refrigerator with a big ole magnet.

    Charlie
    charlie was this your first razor? I just happened upon this thread randomly today.

  10. #20
    Senior Member medicevans's Avatar
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    Justin, I wish you wouldn't have. Now I am going to have to make a frame back.......
    32t likes this.

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