Thread: forge tang/blade transition

Smithing is a fascinating craft. When in Vietnam, I needed to salvage 4 - 5 ton air conditioning units. They were installed 2 units back to back, space, 2 more units back to back. I had to get them apart to reduce their size to something shipable and loaded onto a truck. Wait now, I'm getting to the point.

The only way I could see to separate the units was with about a 4' long straight screwdriver with about a 3/4" long x about a strong 1/16" thick tip - something like a drag link driver, which I didn't have. I went to the local AFB and spoke to a Mr. Kim, the resident machinist. While describing my problem to him he was heating a length of about a #5 rebar and with about 10 blows had the tip fully shaped. A quench and a heat on the other end to give it a quick 90 and I had a screwdriver. About 4 hours later I had the A/Cs disconnected and ready to load.

Mr. Kim was a master with an anvil and hammer and hot steel. No blow was wasted or misdirected. When remembering those days of adventure, I still marvel at his skill.

Thanks for the replies and the video, I will keep trying. The part of the video that intrigues me starts at 1:10. I wonder if I should make a fuller tool of some sorts. I have a hard time trying to hit the exact same spot repeatedly. I can draw the metal out, but I cannot make a proper L shape transition. I finally broke down and used the file to get more of an inside corner.

Thanks

Charlie

Nothing wrong with that approach Charlie. Use the hammer to move the metal close to where you want to be, then finish closer with the file. As your hammer technique improves, less filing will be needed.

i know very little about the forging process, but perhaps you could put it in a vice and use another piece of metal in a chisle manner to get an accurate strike...i think you actually gain some power behind the strike because the force is focused to the end of the rod, but i don't know if this would work just an idea.

you could also cut a groove into the end of the rod to help keep it located...

Those fullering tools kept disapearing at the ABS school. There pretty easy to make. They can be a pain to try and use by yourself so some people weld a block the same size as the hardie hole to the fuller and use the anvil to hold the fuller. It's easier to use with one person. I have seen people build themselves gulliontines, or something like a smithing magician. Blacksmith's Journal - blacksmithing help and publications

After forging a few tangs by hand you'll really appreciate the power hammer even more.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

If you don't understand the process with a hand hammer, using a power hammer will make no improvement. Your mistakes will be bigger. Learn to do these things with a simple hand hammer first.

Slightly OT, but the same principle applies to electrical sanding vs handsanding. Do handsanding first until you have a really good feel for the interaction between the sandpaper and the steel, and an idea about how the steel will react to different things. Only then progress to electrical sanders in whatever shape or design.

Otherwise, every 'oops' is going to do significant damage.

Just my 2ct.