Thread: Forging question?

I had a chance to play in the shop today. I tried making a non-folding razor. I was trying to make a razor that I did not have to grind. My beginners luck at grinding has gone out the window. My goal was to make a frameback style where the spine is thick and the blade is thin. I flattened and profiled the blade then upset/mushroomed the back to make the spine. I clamped the blade in a vice to do this. It took more metal that I thought it would to make the top of the T I ended up with a 4/8+ razor. I am looking practical ideas on how would be a good way to forge the T shape.

Charlie

Charlie, if you were making a nail that would be called heading. Otherwise the correct term is upsetting. There are formulae out there that help calculate how much metal to start with, but I haven't even looked at those for years. Mostly forgot which box of papers saved they are in.

To keep it simple in the early stages, start with stock that is close to the finished dimension of the spine you want since that is probably the most critical size. Only hammer lightly on that portion so it won't distort. This next bit is where you'll need the third hand. Usually a clamp of some kind to keep the hot blade from skittering away from you when you hit it. You could lay the blade on the anvil step too.

Using a hot cut, or the straight peen on another hammer, forge down a line parallel to the spine, but not too thin, not thinner than you want the blade to end up. There are also spring dies you could make so this process went easier, but it's better to learn the principles with simple tools regardless. Here's a picture: http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/sh...php/photo/3590

This line divides the thinner section of the blade from the thicker spine. Everything below that line is subject to tapering blows until the blade is where you like it. As you shape that form you will find the edge expanding and you'll need to occasionally lay the blade on the spine and hammer lightly on the edge to straighten the back. The final forging heat can be done in the vise, to straighten the back and to form a more square/cleaner shoulder for the frame portion.

Later on, when your eye is better at estimating the size needed to end up where you wanted, you can have the starting stock thicker and know that the straightening of the back can be done with the hammer and you can use a little bigger stock. Or, like a great many bladesmiths, just get close and finish it off on the grinder.

I have forging vises for the kind of upsetting you're doing. They're called leg vises. Here's a link.

Blacksmith Vises : Solid Box, Post or Leg Vise (Vice)

The leg rests on the floor, or socketed into a plate, piece of wood, and takes up the shock of hammering. Sorry, I'm feeding your tool acquisition disorder....don't forget the hold-down...and more forging tools, can't have enough tools...

Mike,

You're not feeding my acquisition disorder, you are just a smithing enabler.

Thanks for the advice, with the benefit of your advice and hindsight, I guess it is easier to thin metal with a hammer than to add to the thickness with a hammer.

I just recently acquired an anvil with a hardie hole, I will now make some sort of fullering tool. No more foot holding acrobat tricks for me.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Charlie

Out of curiosity, where did you get your anvil and how much did it run you?

I got int on ebay for 90.00

Charlie