Thread: Added a flat platen to home made grinder

I have pyro-ceramic glass on my flat platen. It's the kind of glass they use for glass doors in wood stoves, etc. I got mine from USA Knife Maker Supply. They have instructions for installing it on the page where they sell it. The glass gives a nice smooth surface, but it also seems to create problems with static electricity build up. Lots of people get zapped. I usually wear surgical type gloves when grinding, just to keep my hands from having grit imbedded in them. I haven't been zapped while wearing the gloves.

PS: Tracy Mickley (USA Knife Maker's) recommends gluing the glass on with JB Weld. I used double stick carpet tape, which seemed to be popular on BladeForums. However, I did attach a metal step" (a piece of stainless steel I screwed onto the metal platen) below the pyro-ceramic glass to keep it from sliding down. By all accounts, the step it the key to keeping the glass from slipping off and shattering.

From a purely theoretical standpoint; glass is a great insulator, so it shouldn't conduct the heat down and away from the belt. The surface may get hotter, but should cool quickly because only the surface will get hot. Metal, on the other hand, will draw the heat from the surface down and to the rest of itself, so it will stay hot as the whole thing will have to cool off. Same goes for spare electrons; they'll build up on the surface of the glass but will travel into the metal, and the grinder is probably either grounded or large enough to prevent a static shock. You may be able to figure out a way to successfully ground a glass plate, should that become an issue, or you could just periodically touch it to ground it yourself.

Or you can just use the metal. That's all I have ever done, and I don't see any problems with it. I really like your 2 wheel/flat platten set up, Undream. I have a rubber wheel at the top of my flat platten, so I can grind smaller raduses, and that works slick.
Have you had any vibration issues with that metal tube you are using to connect to the body of the grinder? I use solid metal bar stock, and it would seem heavier is better, or am I just over thinking the process?

Zero vibration issues. I could NOT find 1.5 x 1.5 solid steel bar anywhere.. this was all I could find. Originally I was worried, and assumed it would only be temporary until I found some solid, but, after a bit of use, you'd never know it was tubular / had holes in it

I'm debating now whether or not to build a tool rest...the grinder has another 1.5x1.5 mount for another tooling arm. I think I can get by without....but.. I dunno, its tempting

Ordered my kit from Mr. Boley today...with the multi platen upon some good advice.

My postmaster may not like me when they grab a hold of that box full of solid steel...

Originally Posted by Undream

Zero vibration issues. I could NOT find 1.5 x 1.5 solid steel bar anywhere.. this was all I could find. Originally I was worried, and assumed it would only be temporary until I found some solid, but, after a bit of use, you'd never know it was tubular / had holes in it

I'm debating now whether or not to build a tool rest...the grinder has another 1.5x1.5 mount for another tooling arm. I think I can get by without....but.. I dunno, its tempting

Hi Undream
I'm pleasantly surprised, I figured it would vibrate, particularly with the extra tooling. Live and learn. I have only ground one razor, and I found the tool rest on mine was worthless. The razor was curved up into the tail part, so the tool rest wouldn't work when I ground the blade. A good excuse to practice my free hand grinding skills. It came out ok - not perfect, but a good first attempt. There was a post a while back about a grinding holder for the blade that worked in conjuction with the tool rest. Wouldn't be much help if you have a curved spine, however. I'll stick with free hand, I think.