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Thread: under construction... open to suggestions

  1. #11
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paco664 View Post
    i have to calculate a diameter of wheel I will need for a slight hollow... Due to the humongous natureof this blade...
    No you don't.
    Atm I stil use the 1.5 inch wheel of my belt sander for grinding hollows.
    You just need to 'roll' the blade from spine to edge back and forth in order to take metal out of the middle.

    Using 1 wheel is easier, but so far I have beendoing this with just the little wheel.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    No you don't.
    Atm I stil use the 1.5 inch wheel of my belt sander for grinding hollows.
    You just need to 'roll' the blade from spine to edge back and forth in order to take metal out of the middle.

    Using 1 wheel is easier, but so far I have beendoing this with just the little wheel.
    i have a 6'' grinding wheel *(high speed) and a 8" water wheel *(for after heat treat... it is slower than christmas but you will not burn anything)... and i have a belt grinder with 6" flat attachment.....

    i was thinking of making a plastic *(or lexan or plexi) jig to be placed under the belt and secured with counter sunk screws to the bed of the belt sander *(it is a ~14" long bed with a 4" wide belt)....

    i may give your method a shot first to see if i can do it..... luckily it is a thick blade so i have just a touch of screwup room....

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    For those thinking "jig" do not ignore the ability to drill
    mounting 'bolt' holes in the blank and then
    cut them away when they are no longer needed.

    A well made jig would permit making a seven day set
    plus one or two and be a lot safer. Build it with
    safety in mind.

  4. #14
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    A jig underneath the belt could work. Interesting.
    Otoh, if you freehand, just don't use too much pressure, use a sharp belt and let the belt do the work.
    As long as you don't linger in one spot, you won't make divots in the steel and you'll get a smooth hollow.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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    i shall gather my sharpies *(to monitor metal removal) and start working on it this afternoon.....

    photos and bandaids will follow....

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    Member Str8Raz0r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paco664 View Post

    photos and bandaids will follow....
    looking forward to it.......the photos not the bandaids

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    Senior Member TURNMASTER's Avatar
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    A curved platen is a good idea and recommended in the $50 Knife Shop (Wayne Goddard). Just secure it in an appropriate manner. clamped or bolted should work.

    What material are you using? The idea for lengthening the handle is good. You could also have a small extension TIG welded on to lengthen it and ant have little or no effect on Final HT. Also silver solder may work, but I have no idea how that would be done and still get the correct HT. Maybe silver solder, full anneal then heat treat?? I dunno how that works out but a few knife makers do it.

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    Senior Member jeness's Avatar
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    Try to make it freehand if you have the courage to. I tried to do it with a jig, and it isn't that much easier as one would think.
    niftyshaving likes this.

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    This is why I love this place. It's amazing how many really good ideas are so obvious they practically slap you in the face once someone puts it in print. Thanks!!!

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TURNMASTER View Post
    A curved platen is a good idea and recommended in the $50 Knife Shop (Wayne Goddard). Just secure it in an appropriate manner. clamped or bolted should work.

    What material are you using? The idea for lengthening the handle is good. You could also have a small extension TIG welded on to lengthen it and ant have little or no effect on Final HT. Also silver solder may work, but I have no idea how that would be done and still get the correct HT. Maybe silver solder, full anneal then heat treat?? I dunno how that works out but a few knife makers do it.
    o1 tool steel...... i am slowly but surely getting more done on it....... but we are in the process of purchasing a house so my spare time is few and far between.....

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