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Thread: Steel for blades?

  1. #11
    Senior Member medicevans's Avatar
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    Jeff, that does sound kind of cool. I may make a sign with that on it and hang it above my work bench.

    Mike or others, which is easier to work with hand tools, O-1 or 1084/85, 1095? Or so negligible as to not matter?

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  3. #12
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    I think it is not that important. Of course I am a rank novice compare to Mike.
    The main criterium for me is that it should be fully annealed.
    Some stuff may be softer than other stuff, but generally annealed -> easy to work, not annealed -> not easy to work.
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  5. #13
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    As Bruno says: if the steel is annealed, it's as soft as it's going to be. Buying from a supplier, I would expect that to be specified in the literature about the material. Or if hardened an Rc or other hardness scale reference number should be there.

    Using files or hand abrasives should feel about the same for all of these. The difference is what they will each do in the heat treatment. O-1 is capable of some interesting phase changes, 1084 typically is foolproof and through hardens everytime, 1095 will do pretty much the same thing, but the stuff I buy is low hardenability and should not through harden. I depends on the chemistry.
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  7. #14
    Senior Member medicevans's Avatar
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    What kind of phase changes does O-1 go through?

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  9. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by medicevans View Post
    What kind of phase changes does O-1 go through?
    Most folks heat treating O-1 get it hot and quench in oil. It's hard = martensite. Then temper and done.
    Quenching into oil, or other fluid capable, held at the correct temperature will get a phase transformation from martensite into bainite. Same hardness but with toughness not usually associated with a hard martensitic blade. More flex, less chipping. See austempering.
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  11. #16
    Senior Member TURNMASTER's Avatar
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    For tool steels, almost all will come fully annealed (any you will be making razors or knives out of). I am going to HT at work in a HT oven and draw back in an annealing oven. For the softened files I am making a couple knives out of I am going to use the gas single brick, magnet method and oil.

    I see little difference in machinability in the fully annealed state.

    Jeff

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  13. #17
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I've used FlatGround.Com - Precision Flat Ground Tool Steel Stock and Drill Rod in O1, A2, D2, S7, and Low Carbon. several times for my precision ground among some of the others listed. Have to check out enco....
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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  15. #18
    Senior Member medicevans's Avatar
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    Personally, I love Enco. One of their shipping centers must be close to my house, because I ordered a piece of O-1 at 0900 and got it before noon the next day! Can't get a whole lot quicker than that!
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  16. #19
    Senior Member TURNMASTER's Avatar
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    I meant ease in machinability between high carbon steels and O1. Other tool steels can be more difficult if not approached at lower SFM. Some like D2 can be downright miserable after hardening, but can take much more grinding heat before it affects their temper. Part of the difference for me is I will be doing a most of my shaping on a mill and not a grinder with my current razor projects. I do not think it will make a lot of difference to those doing all or most work on grinders.

    TMI?

    Jeff

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