Thread: Help making a contact wheel

Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r

Brian,

Not sure what your budget is but these guys have a huge range of part and plans for Belt Grinders. I am considering ordering some bits from them at the moment. Unfortunately postage to Australia is a killer.

Stu

What guys Stu?

Originally Posted by randydance062449

You can use a hole saw mounted in a drill press to cut out various sized wheels but you would still need to true them up after the cut. They are not perfectly round, but very close.

106200 Products

and then you would need a covering for the wheel, plus either a bushing or a bearing.

A Sunray wheel begins to sound like a much better option especially for a drive wheel which may require a slotted keyway.

BTW, if you were to try to remove the "crown" on your existing wheel what would be the cost for a replacement wheel?

Yeah.....Sunray starts looking better all the time.

I haven't looked into the cost of a replacement wheel, but it might be worth a shot anyway. Go slow and see what happens.

Originally Posted by medicevans

What guys Stu?

Sorry, forgot the link.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.p...ex&cPath=99_60

Originally Posted by Str8Raz0r

Sorry, forgot the link.

Grinder Parts, contact wheels : USA Knife Maker Supply, Operated by a knifenaker for knifemakers!

Really a good outfit, from my experiences.

I've contacted sunray (they replied promptly) and requested a quote for contact wheels and a drive wheel.
They even ship to Belgium.

Ok, maybe won't make a stand alone grinder and use the other grinder to power it.

Well......I went out and looked at the wheel itself. I could mount the wheel right on the grinder if I want to cut some of the guard away. If I ran an 8" wheel I'd have to cut A LOT of guard. I may be able to swing a six inch wheel without cutting much of the guard.

Honestly though, if I can knock the crown off the current wheel, is a 4" to 6" worth it?

You probably cannot use a 6" wheel on that grinder. You would need to be able to shorten the distance between the wheels by a couple of inches to use the same belt length.

Regarding the difference between a 4" and a 6" I will let someone else with more experience answer that.
Charlie?

I use my 6" wheel the most, then my 4" and then my 8" wheel. I am not sure if the other people who grind razors use most.

Charlie

Randy, I would switch out the wheels and then make an arm with idler and run a 2x72 belt.

It seems though that now we are getting into more and more mods and more and more money. It's kind of pointless.

I think I will work on knocking the crown of the wheel first. Will a bare metal wheel be too hard to grind on?

Also, maybe a little bit off topic, but since it's my post I can do it. Charlie or anyone else, how do I grind a wide razor with a small wheel and not get it all wavy?

Originally Posted by medicevans

Randy, I would switch out the wheels and then make an arm with idler and run a 2x72 belt.

It seems though that now we are getting into more and more mods and more and more money. It's kind of pointless.

I think I will work on knocking the crown of the wheel first. Will a bare metal wheel be too hard to grind on?

Also, maybe a little bit off topic, but since it's my post I can do it. Charlie or anyone else, how do I grind a wide razor with a small wheel and not get it all wavy?

Wrap layers of tape around the wheel to soften the metal, it works better than you think it will.

How do you grind without wavy? The real answer is practice, every blade you do you will learn something new. I am still refining my grinding style I learn/practice every time I grind a blade.

Charlie