Thread: electrolysis for rusty razor

Originally Posted by falingore

So, yeah, it seems that perhaps using copper as the sacrificial anode (scrap metal piece) may not provide the desired results. The rust removal was fantastic and the blade really does look a lot better. Certainly a lot smoother, although there is some apparent pitting. Even if I hadn't plated it, it would need fresh solution, a good anode cleaning and probably another night.

I too ran a test on copper. Unlike you, I used 15 feet of 14 gauge copper wire I stripped 6" at a time. What a pain! Then I looped it back and forth to fit my Tupperware container. Another pain in the arse!!! After 24 hours I have reached the same conclusion as you: copper is NOT the way to go. It oxidizes way to quickly and seems to draw very little amperage. Here was my set up:






I pictured both sides of the cathode because I want to make a point and clarify an earlier statement of mine. Contrary to internet lore, the line of sight argument does not seem to be a valid requirement for the process to work. In my most recent experimentation, I have found both sides of a blade and the anode seem to process equally well with only one side on the razor and anode facing each other. What that means to users is that they can use smaller containers and need far less material for the anode. I also like hanging my blade horizontally in the jig I posted earlier as this cuts down on the depth of the container needed.

I am also going to put my thumb down on copper for a far more important reason. When falingore posted that his blade seemed to have been tinted by the copper, I thought he must have mixed up and reversed the charger leads. After coffee and the newspaper, I went out to examine my own copper experiment that had run for 24 hours. The blade now definitely has a copper patina and I did not mix up the anode and cathode. I hope you can see it in the picture.



The look is not all that bad but who wants a copper razor blade? Will it tarnish? Like it or not, I presently have a blade with a copper patina and will find out if it tarnishes.

I am in the process now of testing a brass anode. One thing I have found is different anode material act differently. Sheet steel seems to "atomize" all rust and the water remains clean. No gunk floating to the top or resting on the bottom. I am going to experiment further with steel using smaller pieces to see if that affects the draw of amps so my charger is not taxed and forced to cycle on and off. Copper oxidizes the anode terribly and leaves a lot of black oxizidation in the water. Brass, so far seems to foam on the top and I will report more on that later as the process has only begun.

At present, I have 10 blades with all brown rust removed which was easy peasy. I am now limiting my experiments to those blades trying to get at the black rust. I have "reduced" black rust on blades but have yet to eliminate it totally.

I am currently using "Washing Soda" instead of baking powder as the internet lore is that it works better. My conclusion on that is pending. You can make your own "Washing Soda" from baking soda. If you can not find washing soda, this is the way to make your own (even if you can find it, baking soda is less expensive than washing soda). To convert baking to washing soda, spread it on a baking sheet or place it in a bowl (depending on the quantity you want to make). Bake in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes if using a baking sheet. If using a bowl, you will need to stir it a couple times to get uniform drying so extend your drying time to 30 minutes. You can actually see the difference. Baking soda is soft and tends to clump on your finger tip. Washing soda is more crystalline and separates into individual crystals on your finger tip. If you have an open cut, the baking soda does not affect it. The washing soda will sting. I found out the hard way as I had a small cut I didn't even know was there until some washing soda got into it.

I'll report more later. Have fun but be safe!

Randy