Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
Like Tree15Likes

Thread: How thin is too thin???

  1. #1
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,912
    Thanked: 495

    Default How thin is too thin???

    I'm making a pair of razors from 0-1 I've roughed the hollows down to where the blade at the cutting edge is about .050" thick. Should I stop? Should I go thinner? How thin is too thin? I'm worried about heat treating & warpage. Even though I'm taking blanks to a professional heat treater that surely wont promise flatness. And with the ease of metal removal while soft I want to economize my actions.
    Thanks,
    Darl (Tarkus)

  2. #2
    Orange County N.Y. Suile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    651
    Thanked: 30

    Default

    Is that thinner then some of my vintage thorw away razor blades.
    cause i have some vintage blade that fits my Gem Se razors that's like
    4 times thicker then my De blades.
    Tarkus likes this.

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Suile For This Useful Post:

    Tarkus (09-28-2012)

  4. #3
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,912
    Thanked: 495

    Default

    I'm wondering is the .050" thick at the cutting edge a good stopping point for grinding before heat treating & then final grinding after the hardening. Or should I take it thinner before heat treating & risk warpage.

  5. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Burkburnett TX
    Posts
    3,095
    Thanked: 2392

    Default

    You can go thinner .020 or .030, that being said I usually stop around .040 to .050. I like the piece of mind and wiggle room that the thicker edge gives me. I do not mind grinding off the extra material.

    Charlie

  6. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (10-03-2012), gregg71 (02-08-2015), Tarkus (09-28-2012)

  7. #5
    Senior Member Tarkus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    I'm Gonna Spend Another Fall In Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,912
    Thanked: 495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spazola View Post
    You can go thinner .020 or .030, that being said I usually stop around .040 to .050. I like the piece of mind and wiggle room that the thicker edge gives me. I do not mind grinding off the extra material.

    Charlie
    Thanks so much Charlie you are a big help.
    Darl

  8. #6
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,130
    Thanked: 5229
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    Also as you are heat treating, you will get scale and lose some surface carbon.
    So even regardless of warpage, you still need to material to grind away in order to end up with good steel without scale pox.
    Tarkus likes this.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:

    Tarkus (10-10-2012)

  10. #7
    Senior Member deighaingeal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Yakima, Wa
    Posts
    1,955
    Thanked: 494

    Default

    I just love that term: Scale Pox
    Tarkus likes this.

  11. #8
    Senior Member Tim Zowada's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    235
    Thanked: 407

    Default

    I'm sorry to be so late on this. I've been lost in the post-Ashokan Seminar rat race.

    I grind the edges to 0.030" thick on my tool steel blades. I also leave about 0.015 extra on the bottom of the edge as well.

    The extra thickness allows for more wiggle room, as Charlie said. The extra width helps allow for decarberization during heat treating, as mentioned by Bruno.
    spazola and Tarkus like this.

  12. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Tim Zowada For This Useful Post:

    gregg71 (02-08-2015), spazola (10-07-2012), Tarkus (10-10-2012)

  13. #9
    Senior Member TURNMASTER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Eastern Washington, USA
    Posts
    284
    Thanked: 54

    Default

    Wiggle room. I stop .040 to .050 (ish). The reason is because of the thin cross section. With other types of tools having thicker cross sections you can significantly decrease the grind allowance.

    Anyone remember how thick the decarb layer is when treated in a salt bath or electric furnace?

    Jeff
    Tarkus likes this.

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to TURNMASTER For This Useful Post:

    Tarkus (11-05-2012)

  15. #10
    Senior Member Tim Zowada's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    235
    Thanked: 407

    Default

    Jeff,

    If the salts are properly rectified, there is no decarb. For a regular electric furnace, and a simple carbon steel, plan on 0.005". That will vary depending on soak time.
    Last edited by Tim Zowada; 10-13-2012 at 12:01 PM. Reason: I can't type with my thumbs!
    Geezer and Tarkus like this.

  16. The Following User Says Thank You to Tim Zowada For This Useful Post:

    Tarkus (11-05-2012)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •