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Thread: Metal for frameback blades?
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03-30-2013, 01:26 PM #11
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
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- 7,285
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Thanked: 1936pictures, must have pictures!
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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03-30-2013, 03:36 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
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- 388
Thanked: 51
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03-31-2013, 12:28 AM #13
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
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- 388
Thanked: 51Well, I fudged a bit on the build. I wasn't really thinking when I bought the hole saw, and I wound up with way to air space in my forge. Using a MAP gas torch, I was just barely able to get a 1/4"x5"x1" piece of metal to dull red. I had to mess with it a lot, and it took almost the whole bottle to get there. I either need to rebuild it with a smaller cavity size, or I need a bigger torch. Then to top everything off, I didn't measure properly before making my initial hacksaw cuts and I screwed up the stock I was using. At least I wasn't sitting on my ass all afternoon. I'll get those pics taken and posted first thing in the morning. Right now all I want to do is sit down and drink a beer or two.
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03-31-2013, 02:03 AM #14
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Roseville,Kali
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- 10,432
Thanked: 2027Still no pics
need pics man.
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03-31-2013, 02:39 PM #15
i'm pretty sure the soft firebricks insulate better, and have less thermal mass so it doesnt take as long to heat up.. get some soft firebricks like for pottery..
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03-31-2013, 08:53 PM #16
Kitty litter, ashes, and water.
Ad in some straw or something els fibrous for better cohesion.
Dirt cheap, and works very well.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day