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Thread: making-of " kamisori"
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05-15-2013, 11:08 AM #1
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bryan (05-17-2013)
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05-16-2013, 11:27 AM #2
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- Jan 2013
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Thanked: 1How easy does that look?...... I'm only guessing it isn't!
Do you just use the one contact wheel for the grind? I would have thought that a slightly curved (I mean very very slightly) platten might be more appropriate for the almost flat side of the kami but hell, what do I know?
In any case great vids and great work.
Couple of practical questions:
What steel were you using for this particular blade?
Can you use mild steel and weld tool steel to it? I'm thinking normal rolled steel for the tang and the soft part of the blade and then tool steel for the edge.
When you've welded the carbon steel to the edge, will that by the front of the kamisori (the part that usually has the stamps) or the back?
Merci beaucoup!Last edited by BakerandBadger; 05-16-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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05-17-2013, 10:28 PM #3
Awesome videos. I wouldn't say I have overly girl hands, but seeing people get their hands that close to grinders as well as heat sources scares the crap out of me.
JimmyHAD:My wife told me if I bought another razor she would leave me ........ and I miss her sometimes......
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05-21-2013, 06:16 AM #4
It's the only safe way to work. You definitely don't want to wear gloves near a grinder, or any other rotary tool for that matter. Even OHSA now prohibits the use of gloves in those cases. Too much risk of flaps or fabric getting caught and dragging your hands between the belt and othe rmoving parts. Same with a drill press. If the drill catches the glove, it won't stop turning until your arm is wrapped around the drill shaft like a pool noodle.
As for heat, that's really not that bad. I usually wear a left glove only when forging, because I use that hand for holding stock and tongs. I keep my right hand free for 2 reasons. First, it is hard to swing a hammer with a gloved hand and keep control. Second, forging scale can fall in the flap of the glove. And then it stays there. Without glove, it would either fall away or you could shake it off.
But yes. When working with grinders and forge fires, you need to watch what you're doing. It is not for people who let their mind wander while they are doing something.Last edited by Bruno; 05-21-2013 at 06:26 AM.
Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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Jonah (05-21-2013)
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06-14-2013, 12:10 PM #5
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Thanked: 1this must be the best forging video I have seen. It would be awesome if there were more details, but, still an amazing video and set of skills.
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06-14-2013, 01:30 PM #6
I've not enjoyed a forging video for a LONG time. Thank you very much for the positioning of the camera you were using. It showed a LOT of detail and helps me personally on the things I still need to do differently when forging.
I wish more smiths did it that way.
Also....it gave me the urge to give forgewelding a try myself. Probably not for a little while that I'll try it. But at least now I feel like I might be able to succeed in it when I do.
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05-21-2013, 06:34 AM #7
For the purpose of the 'almost flat' side, a 10" wheel is 'almost flat' if you're working on something that is only half an inch wide.
Yes, you can. However, tool steel is so cheap that the savings in cost does not justify the additional work. Functionally, there is no reason to do this on a razor. You'd do it only for aesthetical purposes (or being historically accurate, but you'd use different steel) on things like razors.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
BakerandBadger (05-21-2013)
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05-24-2013, 06:19 PM #8
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05-24-2013, 06:25 PM #9