Thread: Black light test for Ivory?

I think I read somewhere that someone said something to the effect of "now gotta dig out my blacklight to check if these are ivory" or the like.
Is there a blacklight test for ivory?

from here: http://www.buttonimages.com/collector_info/identify.htm

I assume the same info applies to all ivory, not just buttons

Ivory

• Hot needle test will produce no odor. Hard to penetrate. May leave a brown residue in the immediate burned area.
• Very fine grain, almost tooth-like.
• Color can be white to deep cream.
• Takes a very high polish, usually very fine workmanship almost like a waxy luster.
• With a sharp knife one CANNOT scrape off a fine powder as on bone.
• Very old ivory buttons may require a curved needle to be sewed on.
• CANNOT be softened enough to mold.
• Cracking may be caused by heat and humidity.
• Will look white under a black light. Works best if done in a dark area. (Black light is ultraviolet light. Avoid looking at the light directly.)

not that i'm aware of, unless the black light is used to highlight the growth rings.
if you look closely at ivory you will find grain lines running in it like you get in a block of wood.

Thanks for the tip! Over the weekend I picked up a really schweet C. Jackson meat cleaver with white (ivory, bone, horn????) scales....

It had a very fine grain all going in the same direction... I was at a fleamarket so I didn't really have the time to REALLY examine it before I bought it... BUT, the price was right, the blade was nice, had clean, clear etching etc... The scales didn't look or feel like celluloid, or plastic, BUT I couldn't tell whether it was ivory, or bone, or horn....

The scales were very thin like I've seen with other ivory scales by comparison to celluloid, rubber, & plastic scales that I've seen..

When I get a chance, I'll post some pix...

Tony

Originally Posted by bwknight

from here: http://www.buttonimages.com/collector_info/identify.htm

I assume the same info applies to all ivory, not just buttons

Ivory

• Hot needle test will produce no odor. Hard to penetrate. May leave a brown residue in the immediate burned area.
• Very fine grain, almost tooth-like.
• Color can be white to deep cream.
• Takes a very high polish, usually very fine workmanship almost like a waxy luster.
• With a sharp knife one CANNOT scrape off a fine powder as on bone.
• Very old ivory buttons may require a curved needle to be sewed on.
• CANNOT be softened enough to mold.
• Cracking may be caused by heat and humidity.
• Will look white under a black light. Works best if done in a dark area. (Black light is ultraviolet light. Avoid looking at the light directly.)

I have been using blacklight on ivory.Mammoth ivory looks creamy /plastic looks dull/french ivory looks white/blue.I am testing bone.Back with final results.ANYONE ELSE who cares to add?There are so many confusing comments out there.

There're a bunch of good photographs of ivory in this thread.

Under UV (blacklight) bone and ivory aren't as different as all that. Unless you already know how to tell the materials from one another, UV isn't a great way to identify ivory.

Take a look at the pictures in the linked thread and look for those kind of patterns in simple, bright light and you'll do pretty well. Handling some also helps.

yes, handling is the best way. Nothing feels like Ivory in the hand.