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  1. #1
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    Default Cleaning Fancy Scales

    About to begin cleaning-up/restoring to shaving condition a nice razor I got with fancily scrolled scales. The scales have accumulated schmutz in the scrollwork, which makes those areas stand-out, but also to appear a bit dirty.

    I was going to clean the scrollwork out with MAAS and a toothbrush, but am wondering which is the right way to go?

    Does really cleaning out the scrollwork devalue the razor for collectors?

    How do YOU clean scrolled/pressed/chip-cut scales? Or do you?

    Just wondering ...... :?

  2. #2
    Senior Member uthed's Avatar
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    OK .... think about it. The main issue to me is sanitation. For scroll-work on scales I dribble some Ivory dish-washing soap on an old toothbrush and scrub the wet scales until clean. Recently I bought an ultrasonic jewelry appliance with an oblong water tray and that works real well too with water and a few drops of Ivory.

    Some fancy scales are painted. The classic peacock celluloid scales are an example. There are so many of these around in great shape, there is no risk of sacrificing a historical artifact, should you lose some paint to the toothbrush. However, some painted scales are "John West"-level collectibles and ought to left alone, other than a light wipe with a mild soap solution on a sponge. They are probably better as wall-hangers. It's a judgement call ....

  3. #3
      Lynn's Avatar
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    I like the Maas for cleaning scales. More times than not, I find that just a shammy cloth does a great job and really gets the old grime off as well as shine up pins and any metal in the handles. Lynn

  4. #4
    Face nicker RichZ's Avatar
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    I used the MAAS on scales that didn't have any fancy etchings and it cleaned it upp nicely.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Kelly's Avatar
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    A trick I learned a while back was to use tooth paste for cleaning old grime off soft material (plastics and soft metals)

    Use the actual "paste" not the gel's (original crest or plain ole colgate) and keep in mind that tooth pastes have a mild abrasive in them so it will take some sheen/gloss off high gloss plastics, so keep that in mind.

    I dont know if I would use it on something that was a true collectable, but it would be a cheap alternative for the every day use type items. It might even take some grime off the blade, but the abrasive isn't agressive enough to really polish hard steel.

  6. #6
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Try the toothbrush approach first on plastic scales that are nor painted as David noted.

    If that is not successful then try putting a nylon brush attachment in a slow speed Dremel, use MAAS if necessary.

    Just my two cents,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  7. #7
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    Howdy...
    A soft toothbrush and
    Quick and Brite in the paste form
    You can find it at:

    http://www.quicknbrite.com/
    It is not as abrasive as other tubed cleaners. I save those for the blades.

    It does the best job of anything I have used yet on celluloid.

  8. #8
    Senior Member halwilson's Avatar
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    A very helpful thread. Why don't we have a seperate forum for razor restoration questions and discussion?

    Hal

  9. #9
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    Default Thanks everyone!

    Thanks for all the responses! And for the link, Bill! I think I will go with the mild soap/toothbrush method first, and go to the Quick-N-Brite if it needs more. Will be picking some up, in any case!

    I also agree that we shoudl have a Restoration/Repair/Maintenance forum to move these types of questions into.....

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