Thread: Are some razors just better than others?

It's also good to remember that not all razors work for everyone's face. Some guys like Wedges, some don't. Some like Solingen steel others like Sheffield, etc.

Originally Posted by Disburden

It's also good to remember that not all razors work for everyone's face. Some guys like Wedges, some don't. Some like Solingen steel others like Sheffield, etc.

I guess that's really what it is. I'm wondering if those differences are more a technique thing, a honing thing, or just a preference thing.

they say that a really good shaver can shave with any well honed straight, at least 'they" being some of the people here. I have found some razors do shave beter for me than others of the same size and sharpening. I don't know if it is the steel, the grind or what. heavier razors work better for me in general. My 5/8 thistle cut I sold (mistake) was possible my best so far. but maybe that was just because at the time I only had that one and spent three months getting really good with it.

Red

edit: Didn't read this part. "honemeisters with great shaving technique" Ignore what I said below.


Quick answer: yes, yes they are.

Long answer:
Quality of the razor lies in two things: the blade and the scales. Obviously the better quality scales are easier to spot, so we won't discuss that. But the blade should be centered, the scales should be the right length and the pins should be tight.

The other is the blade. First and foremost, the blade needs to be heat treated properly in order to reach a good RC (hardness). Second, a good blade will have an even grind. There are other things, but the first is the most important, the second is mostly for aesthetic reasons, but obviously a grind that is extremely off on one side is probably not going to be a great shaver either.

Ok, so what does that mean? It means that some manufacturers had better quality control standards, better heat treatment procedures, and better furniture (scales). Names that come to mind: Dubl Duck and Puma. Now, does this mean that Dubl Duck and Puma are better than a W&B? Or a Greaves & Sons? Or an American brand? Not necessarily. For the most part, the razors that have survived the test of time survived because someone thought they shaved well enough to not chuck in the trash bin. I will say however, that for the most part, W&B's have some pretty plain looking scales. For the most part anything made in Sheffield or Solingen was of good quality.

However, when you compare a Puma to one of those razors being sold as new on ebay... clearly the Puma beats the junker in quality, shave, etc. But when putting up a Puma v. a Duck...its going to come down to personal preference.

I think if you start saying this razor is better than that brand wise you can get into trouble because there are so many things that people prefer from one to the other that affect the ultimate performance from both a physical and psychological standpoint. You also have to be careful about barbers opinions because many brands like Double Duck were really made and sold for the trade and these brands had salesmen who went from shop to shop peddling their wares so very often if you went into a shop you would often times see the same handful of brands. It might be a cost factor for the barber I don't know.

I can tell you this. I have about 100 razors of all brands and grinds and sizes and I classify my razors as either giving an excellent, outstanding or exceptional shave. They all shave wonderfully so its like splitting hairs (ha ha) between them but the exceptional category is a razor where if you were blindfolded and someone shaved you with it and you didn't know you were being shaved you could never tell a razor was going down your face that's how smooth and sharp it is. The other categories, well you can feel the razor working on your face to various degrees. Now I can change an excellent shaver to an outstanding one if I'm willing to put in enough time on the hone but no matter what I do I can't make an outstanding shaver an exceptional one. Its something the razor either has or doesn't and that's it. Of all my razors I would say probably 25% are exceptional razors and that cuts across brands. I have about 20+ ducks and they all shave wonderfully but only about 25% are exceptional.

So what makes a razor exceptional? Balance, the feel in the hand, good QC with the blade, good manufacturing, good steel. Who knows maybe these and maybe other factors.

The moral of the story is that you not only have to try different brands, and different models within a brand, but also different examples of the same model.

Or be content with what shaves you well.

Another consideration is that an average steel with superb heat treatment may outperform a superb steel with average heat treatment.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Another consideration is that an average steel with superb heat treatment may outperform a superb steel with average heat treatment.

I fail to understand what would make one steel better than another. Sure, there are junk grades of steel that would be unsuitable for razor making, but of the ones that are suitable, I fail to see an appreciable difference. I don't understand.

There are a lot of attributes that a good shaving razor will have,
and these are different for each shaver. I've found that for me,
most of the qualities of a 'good razor' are peripheral to the edge
itself:

- Nice feel in the hand, weight, balance, shank length, tang, etc.
- Razor opens properly in the scales, pinning etc.
- Good stiffness in the blade. Width is less important to me.

Basically, I like razors that feel good in my hands when stropping
and shaving, and gives a good shave -- that's it!

- Scott

Originally Posted by Leighton

I fail to understand what would make one steel better than another. Sure, there are junk grades of steel that would be unsuitable for razor making, but of the ones that are suitable, I fail to see an appreciable difference. I don't understand.

I'm no expert but my impression is that there are many different alloys of steel as well as variations in forging and heat treatment. The alloy will have an effect on the characteristics of the blade relating to stain resistance, toughness and sharpness. How hard or easy it is to hone and how long it holds an edge. At least that is my impression. I could be wrong. I was wrong once before.