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Thread: Disinfect a used razor?
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07-28-2010, 10:33 PM #11
From my research, sodium hypochlorite (Clorox) is best mixed with water in a 1:5 ratio. I use it to sterilize straights, but leave it on just a few seconds for the reasons mentioned above. Then, rinse off with water, and finish with 70% alcohol.
I believe 70% alcohol is the best germicide concentration.
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09-15-2010, 12:00 AM #12
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Thanked: 1Bleach corrodes steel.
From How to Brew by John Palmer.
How to Brew - By John Palmer - Appendix B - Brewing Metallurgy
Pinholes completely thru a brew kettle or keg in a few days. Incomplete rinses, drying concentrating the bleach, bleach solution around the pivots under the scales (not as critical as on the edge, but still not desirable) will damage the brass as well.
How to Brew - By John Palmer - Cleaning Products
CDC Natural Disasters | Cleaning and Sanitizing With Bleach after an Emergency
The items need to air dry to complete the sanitizing process, which will help lead to corrosion and pitting.
A 20 minute soak in a solution that is one tablespoon bleach to one gallon water is supposed to be no rinse (read the label), but the drying would definitely leave concentrated spots of bleach. Which would rapidly corrode the steel blades.
I'll probably use an alcohol soak of the blade before I send my blades off to be honed. Ensuring I don't soak the scales. These things have been around for quite some time (I think the newest one was from WWI), so I really don't need to worry. But I'm a bit cautious when it comes to communicable diseases.
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09-15-2010, 12:09 AM #13
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Thanked: 1If there is any buildup on the blade, it will not be sanitized. Bacteria will survive underneath the dirt/grime/etc. It needs to be clean to be sanitized.
The 70% isopropyl appears to be towards the bottom end of what will be affective.
Also the alcohol may make older plastic scales more brittle. Not sure about celluloid. Ever use an isopropyl based cleaner on a piece of electronics with cheap plastic? Discoloration and brittling of the plastic.
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09-15-2010, 12:29 AM #14
Yea there's alot of stuff out there that will eat alcohol as a snack.
Bleach is the best thing or also a UV-C light will do the job too.No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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09-15-2010, 12:34 AM #15
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Thanked: 66I was also wondering..can having a safety razor run under hot water and sit for a few hours disinfect the same as a str8?
PcDad
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09-15-2010, 12:41 AM #16
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Thanked: 0So far it has been my practice to soak them for an hour or so in dettol. The brand may not be available where you live, but surely there is something similar?
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09-15-2010, 12:51 AM #17
Bleach Solution for Used Straight Razors
Here in Washington State: the Health Department recommends a solution of 1 teaspoon of plain bleach (No Scented!) to one Gallon of water for a general disinfectant! Then the solution is allowed to air dry.
Straight bleach is over kill! That's probably why rust and other problems are present!
I would dip the razor in the diluted solution and then allow to air dry. Don't wipe the solution off! If you are in a hurry, use a blow dryer on low heat.
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09-15-2010, 12:56 AM #18
almost all desinfecktants will eat steel (clorine/bleech needs time to work)
So cleaning followed by UV treatment seems to be one of few options
alcohol dip and air dry should do most(and leave out for a week if your really worryed)
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09-15-2010, 01:10 AM #19
For a Bactericide, fungicide and virucide bleach is your cheapest and best bet outside of getting a product like clippercide. Clippercide will kill HIV, TB.
Bleach for sure is your best bet for cost. The idea that it needs to dry is to allow enough time for the bleach to do its work. As long as the blade is clean of hair and other debris you should be ok with a few minutes and rinse and dry.
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09-15-2010, 01:43 AM #20
recomended time for bleach on clean surface is 10 minute any visible debris makes it 30
so not my first choise on less then stainless steel