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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorBack View Post
    gimpyalex,

    Maybe this will help you:
    Straight Razor Maintenance & Repair Needs

    Regards,

    RazorBack
    PMFJI --

    Here's my problem with that product:

    . . . It's $10 for 2 ounces, and

    . . . The product blurb doesn't say how it's different, or better than, "baby oil", or the "USP mineral oil" I can buy in the pharmacy for about 1/10 the price.

    As an experiment, I tried using "Play-Safe" silicone lubricant (a sex lube) on my razor. I don't recommend it. It's too slippery, and too difficult to remove completely from the scales if it gets on them. But it's certainly safe for skin.<g> Tiny quantities of silicone lube -- from "silicone gun cloths" -- would be better.

    I suspect that SAE 5W-30 (which has loads of anti-corrosion additives, and really good metal-adhesion) would work fine on a razor. If I wiped it off the razor before shaving, not much oil would get on my face.

    From "first principles", a "water-displacing oil" (available in auto-parts stores) would be fine. They don't usually smell good, though -- "Liquid Wrench" doesn't belong in a bathroom.

    I think this is a situation in which _any_ oil will work well, if it's used consistently. I wonder what the gunsmiths advise . . . steel is steel, after all.

    Charles

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    justalex (09-14-2010)

  3. #12
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    I wonder what the gunsmiths advise . . . steel is steel, after all.

    In answer to that question:

    Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

    and another gun-oriented test (but using steel nails):

    http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

    "Corrosion-X" (tested in the first URL) has also been tested by a boating magazine, and performed well. [Sorry, I don't have a URL for that test, just my memory.] It's about $1 per ounce in a "trigger-spray" (non-aerosol) bottle. I'd keep it off the scales.

    "Break-Free CLP" (clean-lube-protect) also gets good test results (in both tests above). It's about $1.50 per ounce. See here for the manufacturer's comments:

    Break-FreeĀ®

    The most effective products are high-tech stuff. They're not aligned with the "back-to-the-past" bias of straight-razor culture. But if you want to protect steel, they'll perform better than mineral oil.

    Charles

    PS -- I think some Corrosion-X or CLP is in my future. On my boat, I use Boeshield T-9 extensively for corrosion control, and it works very well. But it leaves a waxy film, which isn't suitable for razors. I'll report back after some experimentation. I kind of like the idea of a Teflon-coated blade.<g>

    PPS -- a thread on protecting katanas (giant razors) from corrosion:

    http://swordforum.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=91142
    Last edited by cpcohen1945; 09-14-2010 at 09:10 AM.

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    justalex (09-14-2010)

  5. #13
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    I wouldn't use CLP or any other gun cleaning product on my razor, all of these contain various solvents that I do not want in contact with my face, or near any of my mucous membranes.

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    justalex (09-14-2010)

  7. #14
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    I tried using "Play-Safe" silicone lubricant (a sex lube) on my razor
    Ah damn you bet me to it that was my logical next step... but only because I'm a man though

    well after reading all the posts, which were very informative and slightly amusing, I think I'll give it a shot on one of my crappier razors and report back

    thanks for all the replies!

    regards alex

  8. #15
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    I tried out the mineral oil on the razor and it doesn't seem that bad, but whether its any god for your skin is another question it goes on to the blade and stays in liquid form - I was told it was solvent based - I wiped the excess off and it seems to leave a thin layer of lubrication which should be able to be removed with some ethanol.

  9. #16
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    If you're using pharmaceutical-grade mineral oil ("Mineral Oil USP"), it's _not_ "solvent-based" (whatever that means).

    Basically, you take oil from the ground, and refine all the impurities and coloring out of it. "Baby oil" is mineral oil, with added fragrance. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) is more viscous than mineral oil, but has similar composition.

    From the Wikipedia entry for "Mineral Oil":

    Cosmetics
    Mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and cosmetics. It is a lightweight inexpensive oil that is odorless and tasteless. It can be used on eyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking and, in cold cream, is also used to remove creme make-up and temporary tattoos. One of the common concerns regarding the use of mineral oil is its presence on several lists of comedogenic substances. These lists of comedogenic substances were developed many years ago and are frequently quoted in the dermatological literature.

    "Comedogenic" means it'll give you pimples. But in the amounts that come off a wiped-down razor, that shouldn't be a problem.

    The Japanese use "choji oil" for katanas. I believe that's mineral oil plus a little bit of oil of cloves.

    Charles

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