Results 11 to 17 of 17
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08-26-2013, 06:43 PM #11
I use a black marker on the bevel, then use the stone to see if there are any spots that are not quite there yet.
I choose death before dishonorI'd rather die than live down on my knees
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08-26-2013, 06:46 PM #12
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08-26-2013, 06:47 PM #13
Yes, just the bevel, I use a fine tip. If an area still shows marker, then the bevel needs more work.
I choose death before dishonorI'd rather die than live down on my knees
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08-26-2013, 09:06 PM #14
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Thanked: 1184" can I leave them in water? "
You can keep your rocks in water all the time. Mine are. Glen says put a cap full of bleach in the water if your going to leave it a long time. I change mine regularly as my cat likes to play and drink out of it.
"What other strategies can I use to test the status of the bevel, other than the thumbnail test?""'
Shave with it. Not your face but your arm. I tree top to test. If it cuts or seriously grabs hanging arm hair your close.Last edited by 10Pups; 08-26-2013 at 09:09 PM.
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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08-26-2013, 09:07 PM #15
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08-27-2013, 05:43 PM #16
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Thanked: 3215Depends on your stones, there have been reports of Naniwa stones cracking from soaking and or drying quickly. I don’t soak, just dunk a few minutes before using and splash with water in a squeeze bottle as needed, Air dry slowly out of sun light.
The thumb nail test can dull an edge, the thumb pad test is less destructive, but takes a while to learn. When pressed to the skin the edge should slightly grab the skin, it is actually cutting the first layer of skin. And you can test the entire edge.
The simplest, least destructive test is to look straight down on the edge with magnification and under strong light. The edge, where the two bevels meet should appear fuzzy, any shinny spots are where the bevels are not meeting and is not sharp.
There is a good You Tube video here
Painting the edge with marker is useful to see if you are honing all the way to the edge and give you an indication on the straightness of the edge and or your technique. Most vintage razors are not perfectly straight.
Do not dull the edge unless you need to, (micro chipping or uneven edge). You are wasting steel and going backwards. If you use the 4K to bevel set, you just have to put in more time/laps.
If you go to the 1k, once you get the bevels meeting then do some polishing very light pressure laps to begin polishing the edge. This will save you time on the other stones in the progression. Get in the habit of extracting the most from each of your stone with light finishing laps.
Just remember if it is not sharp at bevel set, it will not get sharp higher up the progression unless you spend a lot of time on higher grit stones. Often when we see complaints from novice honers of dull edges, the finishing stone gets the blame. The problem is in the foundation, much like building a home. It’s not the trim that made it crooked.Last edited by Euclid440; 08-27-2013 at 05:46 PM.
08-27-2013, 07:10 PM
#17
I see no reason to leave the stones soaking. Just as easy to fill a basin with water and soak them while getting the rest of my stuff readied.
Your explanation is absolutely awesome. And, I will admit to being guilty as charged.. I recall trying to pop off a few hairs unsuccessfully and moving on to the next stone. It was one of those situations where I didn't pay attention to myself. I knew it was early, but moved to the next step anyway.
I will go back to the 1k and start from scratch, but I won't kill the edge entirely.
Pretty much says it all...
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Love new things that look old, and old things, made to look new again!