Thread: Newb to razor honing question

Originally Posted by bobbybirds

.....snip....

I also need to get a proper barber strop. I am just really researching that now. How does everyone feel about the roo type strop? Do people prepare there strop when they are new in any way or just run with it dry as is?

A strop that has clean even grain leather well mounted so pulling does not cup it will do
the job.

A dry leather will need to be dressed little by little with neatsfoot oil or strop dressing.
I have a 2.5oz jar of strop dressing from c1972 good stuff lasts a long time. Tinkering
on home made strops I used a bottle of neatsfoot oil and wrecked some of my home made
strops by using too much.

Roo is thin and cupping is possible, go for a well respected maker if you
want roo.

Width 2 1/2" is a minimum. 3" works so well I recommend it.
A full length strop is recommended.

As gentle/ cautious as I advise folk to be with leather, I have been known to take
my coarse lapping DMT to the canvas of some new strops. Breaking down the surface of
canvas or nylon with a DMT makes a strop feel like hard felt, so, heck get
hard felt. Breaking in a strop takes time... a dull gold dollar comes to mind
too dull to cut or nick a strop but still has a razor feel and will still exercise both
canvas or leather.

A strop that lets you replace or swap out fabric and leather is a bonus.

Regional strop makers are worth shopping at.

Honing is much like sanding wood, the smaller the grit jumps, the less time you spend on higher grits and the better the final finish after shaping. Pressure, plays a big part here. 8k to 30K Chrome Ox is a big jump anything you do to lessen will pay benefits or you will be asking a lot of the Chrome Ox and likely be disappointed.

Everything after 1K bevel setting, the edge is straight and sharp is polishing. Polishing is for comfort. The higher the finish with the smallest grit jumps the straighter/smoother the edge and better the comfort.

Most new synthetic stones will produce a usable edge, it is really more about progression and technique than brand name.

Stropping is a skill that takes some time to develop, it is not uncommon for new stroppers to cut new strops… purchase accordingly. There are many inexpensive starter strops, or purchase a length of nylon strapping from a fabric store. Finer weave the better.

Hey guys,

So I ended up getting that 13k Sigma Power Select II and I am quite pleased. I did grid both sides with pencil and took it to my 1200 grit DMT diamond plate and it took all of about 30 seconds a side to have all the marks removed, so basically it was virtually flat right out of the box. I went back to my razor and spent a bit of time polishing it up, finishing on some bare leather and went in for only my 3rd SR shave and am quite pleased to say I noticed a difference immediately.

On a side note, today was the first time I was able to complete an SR shave in its entirety without any touch ups from my Fusion... Super happy about that!

The Sigma is a fine stone, I picked one up a while back and quite enjoy the edges it produces. It is a bit on the softer side which makes lapping it quite easy Glad to hear you got good results with it and congrats on the full shave

Niftyshaving wrote: A dry leather will need to be dressed little by little with neatsfoot oil or strop dressing.
I have a 2.5oz jar of strop dressing from c1972 good stuff lasts a long time. Tinkering
on home made strops I used a bottle of neatsfoot oil and wrecked some of my home made
strops by using too much.

Did the leather eventually dry out after over-oiling with neatsfoot?
Jody

Originally Posted by jjsrp

Niftyshaving wrote: A dry leather will need to be dressed little by little with neatsfoot oil or strop dressing.
I have a 2.5oz jar of strop dressing from c1972 good stuff lasts a long time. Tinkering
on home made strops I used a bottle of neatsfoot oil and wrecked some of my home made
strops by using too much.

Did the leather eventually dry out after over-oiling with neatsfoot?
Jody

No it did not dry out. I used cornstarch, a kitchen scraper,
and grocery bag brown paper to "soak up" most of the
mess I made. It never recovered 100% and it
sits idle while I strop with my SRD Latigo strop.

The exercise of making my own strops, some good some bad
taught me how much value there is in the SRD strops.

I guess if I was to keep rubbing it with coarse unfilled paper
it would get right eventually.

Rubbing with clean paper should not result in wet grease spots.
A minimum of strop dressing will transfer.

Stropping with clean paper (news print) is under rated. When in a
hobby shop look for the 1/8" thick 3"x24" birch plywood and
try it as a strop after wrapping tightly with clean news print.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Honing is much like sanding wood, the smaller the grit jumps, the less time you spend on higher grits and the better the final finish after shaping. Pressure, plays a big part here. 8k to 30K Chrome Ox is a big jump anything you do to lessen will pay benefits or you will be asking a lot of the Chrome Ox and likely be disappointed.

Everything after 1K bevel setting, the edge is straight and sharp is polishing. Polishing is for comfort. The higher the finish with the smallest grit jumps the straighter/smoother the edge and better the comfort.

Most new synthetic stones will produce a usable edge, it is really more about progression and technique than brand name.

Kind of agree but if we were to throw naturals into the equation the situation could change somewhat & 1 or 3 stones can be plenty. Even jumping form 5k Shapton Pro to 12k works just fine.

Very much agree here tho "it is really more about progression and technique than brand name."

One detail.... there are two common cases for honing.

* In need of a bevel set or more

* Just a tuneup, shaved with it this morning and it was just OK.

When restoring or resetting a bevel the stack of hones is quite large.
The progression commonly begins at 1k and then works it way down
to 8K or finer. Honemasters collect a progression of hones that
optimize their time and effort.

The notion of a refresh is for a blade that shaved OK yesterday and only needs a touch up.
It can be made right with a single darn fine hone... (8k to 16k) . Since I have not
played with the Shapton 30000 I am going to ignore that for now. A recently
lapped flat modern darn fine hone will have enough tooth to make an
edge right as long as the bevel is still intact. Recently I have been "refreshing"
on a Sigma 13K hone and have found that the edge improved quickly
and was a delight to shave with.

Those that "refresh" with a pasted strop will get nice shaves for a while
but eventually a darn fine hone will have trouble getting the edge right.

This distinction is valuable because sending a blade out to a honemaster
can repair and reset the bevel and quickly progress down to a finished
edge. A shaver does not need to reset the bevel in normal use and
can "refresh" the edge with a well selected single hone.

Naturals... well they are all different so what works, works.

As far as grit progression goes a lot depends on the media.
No longer available at Woodcraft the abrasive film was
a simple three grit progresson 15micron, 5micron, 0.3micron
and the jumps were not a problem. In fact the 0.3 micron
film makes for a deluxe refresh.