Thread: In need of information on lapping and honing for a first timer

thank you for the tips I measured the Norton 4k/8k I have lapped it nearly a 16th of an inch so far, still has a little uneven graininess so I will continue to lap that again. Oh and the Norton was made in Mexico if that's significant.

the advice about my Chosera is a relief :-)

I'm a very scientific individual and am curious if types of water used plays a role in honing as well as temperature. I live in a home with hard water. Would soft water make a difference also how about distilled?

I like Lynn's videos but was unaware of Gssixgun thank you for the new resource eddy.

My digital camera doesn't have great resolution to show the chip on the hart but here are the photos.
The chip or indentation occurred at the razors toe. I have not attempted a repair on the hart and probably wont for sometime until I feel I'm ready and confident.

the fine established bevel is non existent on my cheap half hollow Damascus razor. Will the bevel be visible after the chosera 1k stage or is that something that shows up after finishing on a polish stone like my 12k?

currently I am practicing honing on the Damascus steel razor that I purchased in a package deal.
its has become dull since I first learned to shave with it and in my opinion even duller after my marathon of honing attempts last night. It doesn't want to travel or even come close to cutting my thumb pad. believe me I've applied hard pressure and kind of wanted it to cut. I just miss shaving so much.

one more thing I have read that for beginners honing slowly works best and that on the chosera that cuts well and fast it should be effective. is this info true? how much pressure should I apply I am the most confused about how much pressure to apply.

I hope the pictures are clear enough to attain a good assessment on my problems with both the chipped/warped hart and the dull Damascus.

I apologize for the disorganization and multiple questions however I am extremely eager to produce a successful bevel and hone. its all I think about.

Originally Posted by scrambowlz

thank you for the tips I measured the Norton 4k/8k I have lapped it nearly a 16th of an inch so far, still has a little uneven graininess so I will continue to lap that again. Oh and the Norton was made in Mexico if that's significant.

Yes actually it is and thanks for posting it

The ones that are made in Mexico were the worst ones to get lapped in at least they have been in the past.. Please let us know how it goes

I'm not sure how you define 'bevel' as I can see a bevel forming on the damascus. What's happening at the edge may be a different matter tho as we have no idea what kind of heat treatment it had if any. It's bevel is pretty large & heavier at the heel but as you are honing it with tape you may simply be following the shape of the spine. Usually tape on a razor produces a smaller bevel so I think the geometry on this blade is wrong or you have been bearing down hard on it.

Pressure is a variable thing & I find it difficult to quantify because different parts of the razor will have different pressure on them. If you want to hone a microchip from the edge of a blade, the lightest pressure will put that edge in contact with the stone. If you are restoring an edge that needs a lot of steel removed some pressure will help as your goal is to thin out the steel behind the original bevel as you create a new one. Just remember that too much pressure will flex your edge away from the hone or in the case of a wedge maybe chip the edge. The stone will do the job for you.

I would say it would not take terribly long to correct that Hart on the 1k but they are pretty hard steel. You can hone it with a taped spine as I believe they come that way from the factory. Make sure your stroke contacts the whole edge as they have a slight smile.
I think the same advise given for stopping applies for honing. Just enough pressure to keep contact with edge & spine but when honing a little torque into the edge will save spine wear.

I am by no means an experienced razor honer, but I am a very experienced woodworking tool honer and one thing I have experienced myself, and has always been actively talked about amongst the woodworking community, is the Norton Flattening stone not being truly flat and having some real quality control issues. I ended up getting rid of it and now use a DMT diamond plate to keep my sharpening stones flat and it definitely works better (for me at least).

This may have little impact on your use, but flat stones are a must (IMHO) to truly achieve sharp, and a flat reference is needed to keep your stones truly flat as well...

I'd say kitchen knives & disposable blades are a far cry from honing a straight razor as the straight has a built in honing aid called the "spine".
You'd be better off practicing on a straight razor to learn how to hone a straight razor. eBay cheapies would be one way to go but vintage not supposed damascus.

making some progress on the chosera 1000 grit my brother is slowly lapping the 4k atm. would rather go slow and get it right than to over lap and loose some stone. bevel is developing slowly but surely thanks for the tips everyone

First, you have a great set of hones. You should be able to sharpen any razor just with those.

Dump the Norton flattening stone, though. Get a DMT 325 for that. You may never need to make another hone purchase.

Also, forget the "cheap Damascus" razor. You will never get a good edge on that. These are worthless, usually made in Pakistan, and a complete waste of time.

You should be able to correct the chip with the Chosera 1K quickly. I would round the end of the toe which will make it even quicker -- others would argue. I personally would round the end of any square point, but that's just me. Then move through your 4-8-12K progression and you should be golden.

Good luck, and welcome to the fraternity!

+1 for getting a DMT lapping plate - or if you have the cash a Shapton glass diamond lapping plate - these will save you hours in lapping and do a better job.

Keep at it - watch all the videos you can and buy a cheap vintage razor off eBay to learn on first. It took me a good six weeks to learn how to hone effectively and I'm still no pro but I can put a shave ready edge on any of my razors...

Good luck!

John

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yes actually it is and thanks for posting it

The ones that are made in Mexico were the worst ones to get lapped in at least they have been in the past.. Please let us know how it goes

correction the 4k grit is from Italy and 8k grit is from the USA

Originally Posted by scrambowlz

correction the 4k grit is from Italy and 8k grit is from the USA

Thanks for the correction, again let us know how it goes