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Thread: JNats explained...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brighty83 View Post
    The information on this stone is. well... IMHO wrong it ain't really a kiita (Kinda is) and it is 100% not a Karasu. It makes me wonder what else is wrong with it. not to mention the lack of a description.

    Make sure you give it a good lap before using it.
    Hmmm... Well, thanks for the honesty, I really do appreciate it. Guess putting the cart before the horse and buying before I know more may not have been such a good idea. lol. We'll see how it turns out... May still be able to use it for a slurry stone. Being that big, and considering how much I hone, it should last about 3 lifetimes that way.

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    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ketsco101 View Post
    Hmmm... Well, thanks for the honesty, I really do appreciate it. Guess putting the cart before the horse and buying before I know more may not have been such a good idea. lol. We'll see how it turns out... May still be able to use it for a slurry stone. Being that big, and considering how much I hone, it should last about 3 lifetimes that way.

    No problems.. But Hey, it may be a really good stone too. You never know with Jnats. It's Russian roulette. Like I said, price doesn't determine the quality.

    It does have the skin and that's nice to have on a Jnat, in the way of looks but until you test it you won't know if it's good for razors. The hardest thing for you is you don't really have anything to compare it too, as in what's good and what's not.

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    And that brings up even more newb like questions. When you say at least it has the skin, what does that mean? Also I hear I need to look out for toxic lines... what in the heck is a toxic line and how do I recognize one if I see it?

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    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    This is a Toxic line
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    Is not something you can really tell from a photo as some lines are not toxic. From this photo you can kinda see it most likely will be toxic though.

    This is is what a toxic line produces. (This was not caused by a toxic line but by the layers in the stone. Much the same result though)
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    I purchased this when i was learning and this was the result. I was actually really lucky with this stone and managed to lap it past the toxic layers (Not lines). Its now a very useful stone.

    Toxic line are simply just lines with chunks of hard rock that break off and cause micro chips on the blade. You should call it "unstable particles that break off within line on stone" but toxic is easier.

    As for the skin, this is the side of the stone that has NOT been cut, it has a tree bark like look.. or a skin.
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    Last edited by Brighty83; 11-02-2013 at 06:08 AM.

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    AHA!!!! I see said the blind man as he picked up the hammer and saw...

    Now for the next semi-opinion based question... Slurry stones, obviously I don't just want to grab a river rock or anything, but should I pick up a less that quality honer, can I just use that for slurry instead? Or what typically makes for a good slurry stone?

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    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    This would depend on the stone and its purpose. What are the qualities of the stone and what is its intended purpose. Does it even need a slurry stone? If its a soft stone a slurry stone would be a waste of time if its a hard stone do you intend on finishing or would you like to use a courser grit. Again there are many variables..

    You have already ordered the stone, wait and see how they behave before ordering anything else that you may or may not need.

    This is why you dont rush out and buy a jnat
    Last edited by Brighty83; 11-02-2013 at 07:52 AM.

    Chris.

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    hahaha, well on a good note, this time it was more just for my knowledge... No bidding for me for a while. Gotta see what comes in and then remember to label it all, try it out, find out I'm not a honemeister yet, and try it again in a different setting. (After I calm down from not getting the edge I wanted) lol Thanks for all the tips.

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