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Thread: Zulu grey...first hone
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01-03-2014, 07:31 PM #11
Zulu grey...first hone
I went ahead and did this and it took quit a while to lap straight (20 min) the unused side. Maybe I thank you later! LOL! Then I went and finish the side like Micheal recommends with the 1500 grit sand paper on a dry stone.
Edit: this next quote is from MichealC, not from Laurens (iPad multiple quote error)
I used it after relaping with the 1200 Atoma then dressing the Zulu with a 3k grit stone follow by the turi, let dry and sand with the 1500 paper. Maybe an overkill. The surface is a little smoother than the other side, only noticeable when wet (how the water makes the surface look) or dry only by doing the tongue test on the dry stone, you can feel the smoothness, but just slightly smoother (yes, I have become intimate with the Zulu), but is not noticeable by the touch or by the look on a dry stone. Maybe now I need to roughen the other side more (only take it to the 400 Atoma) and use the slury on that side. Something to experiment now!
Any way, I took the razor I did before on my regular routine and went back to the newly polished side (thank you Laurence) and shaved.
This razor was shaving good after the 8k Shapton glass and CrOx. It was a smooth 3 pass razor for a DFS. The razor was shaving better after my first honing with the Zulu. My progression from an 8k edge has been to raise a slury with the Atoma 1200 (milk white but not pasty), diluting and checking every 20 or so strokes for sharpness (leg/arm hair test) finishing with almost water but not 100% clear. My regular progression for best results, is to come off the 16k Shapton glass then go to the Zulu with a slight turi slury for finishing. However, after the Zulu progression. With its own slury, I shaved twice with it, first without paste, then with paste (CrOx only, no CBN on this one). The shave was smooth on the first and a little smoother on the second with good sharpness to make it a two pass razor + touchups for a complete BBS and hardly any alum burn.
Went back to the new polished side and water only for another 60-70 laps. The shaved improved in sharpness and the smoothness was comparable with the first attempted with CrOx, but without the CrOx. So it did something, don't know if it was for the extra laps or the new surface. I think a little of both. If the surface would have been as before (1200 Atoma then dressed with a turi), I think it would only improved in sharpness for the extra laps, but not for smoothness, or maybe it was the increase sharpness that made it smoother. Hard to say. The shave was two pass + touchups for complete BBS. The only difference was the touchup patches where smaller than on the two shaves before (that's how I know it was sharper).
Next shave would be with same razor after CrOx paste (5-6 pases).
Either way I'm going to keep both surface and use it as such from now on (can't waste the 20min. of lapping!)
Aaron (wxman2000), as you start with your honing, there are going to be lots of variables that can affect you honing, from too much pressure to uneven pressure along the edge, condition of the edge, thickness of slury, dilution of slury and stokes, stone preparation, steel of the razor. The only thing that is going to improve your honing is practice with observation. This is the best advice I can give you and don't be afraid to experiment (another good advice I was given by Jimmy Had). We all give you advice but ultimately is you doing the honing and you have to see for yourself what's working and what's not. Honing is like fishing. You can read about it and learn, but until you do it, it's the only way you going to find out what works for you and what's not. And the more you do it, the more successful you be at it! It's good to talk and interchange ideas for you to experiment with. Let us know of your progress, failures and success! We love to read and learn from each other. Double OLast edited by Double0757; 01-03-2014 at 07:36 PM.