Thread: Red Amakusa

While I don’t have an Amakusa, I have hone on naturals for years bevel setting on Arks. More recently I have bevel set razors that were in need of edge repair/bread knife and experimented bevel setting on a DMT 1200.

If you try to completely bevel set, where the bevels come togeather the edge becomes very chippy. So I take the edge to the point the bevels are even and flat but bevels do not come completely togeather.

Then bring the bevels togeather with a finer grit stone or film. It takes more time and work but I feel the edges are stronger for it.

This statement may not be for the novice honer… You do not have to completely bevel set to the point the edges meet, with your bevel setter in the 1K range, get close then seal the deal with a finer stone.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

While I don’t have an Amakusa, I have hone on naturals for years bevel setting on Arks. More recently I have bevel set razors that were in need of edge repair/bread knife and experimented bevel setting on a DMT 1200.

If you try to completely bevel set, where the bevels come togeather the edge becomes very chippy. So I take the edge to the point the bevels are even and flat but bevels do not come completely togeather.

Then bring the bevels togeather with a finer grit stone or film. It takes more time and work but I feel the edges are stronger for it.

This statement may not be for the novice honer… You do not have to completely bevel set to the point the edges meet, with your bevel setter in the 1K range, get close then seal the deal with a finer stone.

Sounds like a plan! I think I will start the bevel setting process using the Amakusa then when the bevel gets close switch to the Welsh DT. If that turns out OK then go to either the Welsh LM or Coticule then depending on how the edge feels finish with C12k if needed.

Later I'll try the Amakusa then switch to the Coticule and see what happens. Experimentation is what makes this sport/hobby interesting, so many things to try.

Thanks for the info!

I have used Mikes?Modines Amakusa before, it is a nice stone, but IIRC it seemed to like some steels better than others.

Since Modine's hone was hand picked he apparently was able to get a good one. Mine on the other hand is a different story. Tried again last and no matter what I tried, and I tried different techniques, strokes, etc., the results were the same, no improvement. I did followed the Amakusa with the Welsh DT and it did improve the edge but since the bevel wasn't set before DT I think it would take a long time for it to finish setting the bevel. Therefore, IMHO, that combo won't work.

Next I try following the Amakusa with a Coticule and will report back with results.

OK, so I tried the Amakusa and Coticule on the W&B Special. Got the edge to where it was somewhat sticky (pulled hair instead of cut) then moved to the Coticule. Shaved with the W&B Special last night and it wasn't bad at all, very little irritation and a clean shave. The Coticule did 90% of the work; finished setting bevel then finished sharpening, polished and finished the edge.

IMHO, the Amakusa may be OK for knives but unless you can hand pick one or have someone else do it for you as Modine did I don't think they are suited for str8 razors, at least mine isn't. So, this experiment has been terminated and it looks like I have a $30 door stop. Maybe I'll draw a face on it and use for target practice....wonder what a 50 cal. round ball would do to it?