Thread: "Softness" of a Naniwa 8K

Recently, I'd posted about gouging the point of a blade which needed correction into my Naniwa 8K.

I didn't receive much feedback about it. I was wondering if this stone is softer than the 3K side, and softer than the 1K(I'd imagine) or had I done something horribly wrong. I don't think I soaked it for more than 5 minutes(maybe less) and I use distilled water, dry it with a towel, never leaving it out to the sun for any extended period.

Can someone kindly share some light on this subject for me?

Regards,

Originally Posted by Siguy

Recently, I'd posted about gouging the point of a blade which needed correction into my Naniwa 8K.

I didn't receive much feedback about it. I was wondering if this stone is softer than the 3K side, and softer than the 1K(I'd imagine) or had I done something horribly wrong. I don't think I soaked it for more than 5 minutes(maybe less) and I use distilled water, dry it with a towel, never leaving it out to the sun for any extended period.

Can someone kindly share some light on this subject for me?

Regards,

I am fairly sure that you aren't supposed to soak naniwas, I think you just spray the surface, nortons need soaking.
Sorry Siguy that's all I have got.

I had read they don't require long soaks, but nothing about no soakings at all.

Thanks for the input, Ed.

Very, very respectfully,

Siguy

Naniwa superstones are resin bonded stones. Stones made from this method are less prone to damage from sun and submersion in water. That's also why they are softer than the naniwa Chocera. The ceramic stones are the ones that develop the hairline cracks this way.

Originally Posted by Siguy

I had read they don't require long soaks, but nothing about no soakings at all.

Thanks for the input, Ed.

Very, very respectfully,

Siguy

No worries, that's just what I took from a variety of threads from when I was trying to find out about different hones though there were two camps then if I recall, I am pretty sure that's how Lynn does it in his vids too. Though I don't know if soaking is in any way detrimental.
Considering how soft my 10k was when I lapped it I imagine it would be fairly easy to damage the surface.

Ed, I vaguely remember Lynn saying that about the Shaptons(spray and go stones), but I distinctly recall soaking Naniwas for a couple of minutes(maybe Lynn or Glen's vids). I've read 5-10, but I soak mine 2-5 minutes.

@Vasilis,
Informative. I have one question, I was performing the same sort of honing gymnastics on the 3K Naniwa with even more pressure and never gouged it. I believe that I let that stone soak 1-2 minutes longer than normal as well. What might account for that, I wonder.

Originally Posted by Siguy

Ed, I vaguely remember Lynn saying that about the Shaptons(spray and go stones), but I distinctly recall soaking Naniwas for a couple of minutes(maybe Lynn or Glen's vids). I've read 5-10, but I soak mine 2-5 minutes.

@Vasilis,
Informative. I have one question, I was performing the same sort of honing gymnastics on the 3K Naniwa with even more pressure and never gouged it. I believe that I let that stone soak 1-2 minutes longer than normal as well. What might account for that, I wonder.

Ok, I have been known to be not correct from time to time. I wonder what not soaking mine has done.

Porous stones do generally get softer after soaking. And naniwa superstones are indeed quite soft, but I like it.
If you have to use pressure to remove more metal, you might as well try a coarser stone.
There is no reason to use too much pressure, and, this way the edge is not evenly honed, as the pressure is uneven on the whole surface that touches the stone.
For your stone now, if you can't feel the damage with your finger or nail (and the stone is not defective, a rare thing) don't worry about it.

I just spray my Naniwas , tap water, and hone, no soaking. When you are working on the toe of the blade you just have to be careful about the angle and pressure you put on the point or you will gouge the Naniwa.

Bob

Before I use the Naniwa 12K I just spray some water on the surface, wait a few minutes
to let it soak in, and then give it a light lapping on a DMT 325. During use, I just spray
it enough to keep it wet on top.

You could take a sharp pencil and "write" inside the gouge. Then lap the stone until all
the pencil marks are gone. It is a very soft stone, so that shouldn't take too long,
unless the gouge is really deep.

Vasilis is right about the use of pressure: a very light touch works best...and a minimal
number of strokes.