Thread: Any idea what I could be doing wrong?

Liked this video also. If I'm not sure what's going wrong, I'll either stop and post, or stop and watch or stop and read or just STOP!

Each razor is unique and may pose entirely different challenges from the next. The first looks particularly challenging with the frown.

Regards,

Originally Posted by Amenrab

Actually, I'm starting to see that I may have misinterpreted it. I saw 5 strokes, then that he sometimes overhones, then thought that he saw saying going (significantly) over 5 strokes has the danger of over-honing.

When I was in culinary school a lot of the new students would ask, "chef, how long do I cook this?" The answer was always the same - until it's done. "Until it's done".....sounds simple enough but what is implied is that you KNOW when it's done. That's the real hard part about honing is knowing when it's done and when it's not. What do you look for? What indicates that it's done? Think in those terms and the learning curve may be a little less. You may count circles or strokes in terms of say sets of five or something. But the total number it takes to do anything is always going to be unique. As you're approaching this, think in terms of how, when, and where. Never how much. How much is for book keepers and coroners. It's after the fact.

Yeah, I'm learning that too(we are always in a perpetual state of learning, are we not?). Early on(which means not that many months ago), I started to realize this profundity in my honing.

From what I've witnessed, when one gets to a level of proficiency, one just knows. However, when in doubt, do your tests. The thumb nail test and marker tests for bevel setting,,, HHT, ARM, shave test... not all in that order, except for the bevel setting tests....

Bell sounded, off to next class

I can say this. Old razors were all honed differently by different hands. They have been used to open boxes and letters. My best results have been to make sure it is dead dull and tape the spine 1 layer and hone on a DMt until it gets 'pocketknife' sharp. Then look at the bevel. If it is way too wide, hone it some more on 1k to get the scratches out and , with 2 layers, go at the DMT lightly a bit. THEN go to the hones. If you are not touching the edge or trying to hone too wide a bevel, it will take a lifetime! I DO use a well-worn DMT for this with LOTS of water. No need to push down! Light!
JMHO

Originally Posted by Amenrab

Hours? I was reading another guide that only recommended 10passes or so to set a bevel, otherwise there's the danger of over-honing. Does that only apply to razors that have never been honed, like dovos?

I wouldn't worry much about overhoning when trying to set bevel on an old razor with a 4K stone, I've never had a new razor but anything I've bought off the bay has seen a fair bit of time on a 1K. Even with shave ready blades from other members I've done a lot more than 10 passes to get the bevel in step with my honing stroke.

Originally Posted by Amenrab

Actually, I'm starting to see that I may have misinterpreted it. I saw 5 strokes, then that he sometimes overhones, then thought that he saw saying going (significantly) over 5 strokes has the danger of over-honing.

Actually I think you were mis-led. There is a lot that I disagree with in that link.

First and most critically, you will be hard-pressed to ever come close to setting a bevel on any razor doing 5 strokes on a 4k or even a 1k.

Rather than running down an entire list, I'll just say that you are in NO peril of over-honing during a bevel set on a 4k or a 1k. You may remove more steel than necessary, but you are not going to create a fin, or burr, during the bevel setting of a razor. Such a burr is the definition of over-honing at this stage and you will be hard-pressed to ever see it on a razor. In my opinion, over-honing on a razor only occurs on the higher grit synthetics when the edge becomes too brittle.

I guess if the bevel was set properly and its come round to set it again and there is little to correct then 5 strokes might be sufficient. Still, it is a little vague.

I've done precisely what was mentioned in the last part of Utopia's post, fortunately it was a gold dollar razor. I hadn't set the bevel correctly and continued on to hone with a high grade synthetic stone until the edge couldn't take it any more. With that said, I'd been honing for hours on the high grade synthetic with increasing pressure on the blade.

You certainly live and learn - the importance of getting the bevel right was a lasting lesson from that experience.

I finally managed to set a bevel using 1200 grit sandpaper, thanks to jelajemi for recommending that, but now I can't get it to shave arm hair without touching the skin.

I've tried starting from 25 and following this pattern Pyramid honing guide - Straight Razor Place Library
And then following the aggressive one from here Honing - Alternative approaches - Straight Razor Place Library
And then following the conservative method twice.

It really takes time and patience to get this honing lark to work. If it were me I think I'd invest in a 1000grit to use as a bevel setter. also if the blade is really blunt it will need a lot of work to set that bevel just keep going until whatever indicator you're using tells you it's there. When I started out I was convinced that I was doing something wrong as it was taking forever to set a bevel, so I sent it away to be honed by someone else as I didn't want to ruin the razor. Now, having bought some cheap razors off ebay it's given me the opportunity to practice without worrying about the razor too much and I've come to realize that each one will be different. As for not cutting arm hair, did you try it after you'd set the bevel? If it worked then it may be as you've progressed up the the hones you may be using to much pressure again this was my problem.
What hones are you using?

Originally Posted by Anthony1954

As for not cutting arm hair, did you try it after you'd set the bevel? If it worked then it may be as you've progressed up the the hones you may be using to much pressure again this was my problem.
What hones are you using?

When I got it, I could run my finger down the edge and not get cut
After doing a few circle strokes on sandpaper, it could cut through arm hair when touching the skin
After doing the pyramid strokes, as stated previously, it could still cut through arm hair, but only when touching the skin.

I'm using a norton 4k/8k.