Thread: Questions about my first barber hone

I am hoping for some assistance with my first barber hone. The name is Velvite and I have never heard of it. Having not owned a barbers hone, what do you think of the quality? It is dished on both sides and it is quite literally a little rough around the edges. I am planning on lapping it.

Sorry I'm having problems posting pics:
Velvite Carborundum Sharpening Stone Vintage Bonheur Co Syracuse NY | eBay

First I think I can't go wrong with the purchase. My full cost with shipping was $6.84.

I was thinking of lapping with DMTs up to 600, then use wet/dry Silicon Carbide 1k and 1.2k. It doesn't look like the hones with the brick like interior. Where it's chipped it looks like the same dark brown consistency as the surface (almost black when wet).

My assumption is that being ceramic, it's grit will be whatever it's grit is. Meaning I could polish it with a 30k, but if it's grit is 6k, it'll still be 6k. I figured to polish it up to the 1.2k to get closer to that good barber hone finish.

Once it is not dished any longer I could lap it with my PHIG (if that would be recommended). Then give at least a 100 passes with some of the old worn carbon steel blades that are sitting on my workbench using Smith's Honing Solution just to work it in.

Once it's worked in and I can see a more polished finish I can start testing using real razors and test the outcome.

With the exception of a PHIG my other hones (Suehiro 3k/8k and 2 JNATS) are porous. I wanted to pair this with the PHIG so I can try Oils, honing solutions, etc.

Anything from 6k up would be fantastic. I'm hoping that it will cut faster than my PHIG. The Chinese polishes great, but it is slow going. Currently when I need to touch up an edge I go to the JNAT for a couple of passes then to the strops.

I have always been hesitant to hone a blade in oil on the Chinese, then move to the Japanese using water. I know if I clean the blade well the oil will not get on the JNAT, but I have been overly cautious with them.

This would be for restored blades. Set the bevel on the Suehiro at 3k, next move to this barber hone with oil to get it dialed in. After that I can experiment with the PHIG and oil.

Maybe I'm being too cautious, you tell me. I had been wanting to acquire a barbers hone. So for me it makes sense not to keep changing from oil to water and back during the process. Experiment with oil friendly hones in one progression versus honing on water with more porous hones. Am I being paranoid?

$2.81 - what are you a Rockefeller?! I hope that guy doesn't spend it all in one place.
Maybe wolfpack will weigh in. I'm not much good except for smart alec comments
Good luck with the hone Jim.

Good score still lap it up and go for it
But $22.50 shipping to Australia for that damn you lot have it so good half the razors that go for good prices double with shipping to here lol

How to lap a barber's hone...

http://www.razorandstone.com/showthr...-a-Barber-hone

Sorry, but Velvite does not appear in the list of barber hone reviews there.

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

$2.81 - what are you a Rockefeller?! I hope that guy doesn't spend it all in one place.
Maybe wolfpack will weigh in. I'm not much good except for smart alec comments
Good luck with the hone Jim.

Tell me about it! I was able to lap my previous hones using sand paper. I figured ceramic needed something more.

... It cost me over $10 for a 200/300/400/600 DMT from Harbor Freight. Oh well I needed one anyway.

Originally Posted by Substance

Good score still lap it up and go for it
But $22.50 shipping to Australia for that damn you lot have it so good half the razors that go for good prices double with shipping to here lol

Originally Posted by Splashone

How to lap a barber's hone...

How to lap a Barber hone.

Sorry, but Velvite does not appear in the list of barber hone reviews there.

Excellent info for the restore.

I lapped it to 600 on the DMT, but it left scratches. I think the edge of the DMT sticks out just a hair.

I will spend another $10 for the sand paper and lap it up to about 1200, then condition it.

Do you think Smith's Honing Solution would work to condition it? I also have a ton of Glycerin as an option.

The restoration process seems to point to something viscous and petroleum based as a finish sealer. I would stick with that direction.

As far as a conditioner, I just lathered it in some vaseline and wrapped it in a paper towel for a week. May work better with something not quite so thick.

Originally Posted by Splashone

The restoration process seems to point to something viscous and petroleum based as a finish sealer. I would stick with that direction.

Originally Posted by MattCB

As far as a conditioner, I just lathered it in some vaseline and wrapped it in a paper towel for a week. May work better with something not quite so thick.

I can do that. With the weather getting high and dry that is a good recommendation. Vaseline it is. The tough part will be waiting.