Thread: Welsh Slate

So, I lost our on a coticule that was a 2x6 by $1 on eBay. The auction ended in the middle of the night, and I didn't want to stay up over it. Anyway, I'm thinking of getting a set of Naniwa Super Stones in 220, 1000, and 4000 followed by a progression on welsh slate and a back Arkansas. For those of you more experienced with these stones, will this work?

I've used a Dragon's Tongue, and it took me from a 1k (Kind, I think) to a very acceptable shave. Dunno about the black Arkie; never tried one of those.

Black or translucent Arkansas' are good but horribly slow stones for finishing. They do a really good job though.
Lather, honing oil, or glycerin and water to hone on them.
~Richard

Originally Posted by jte87

So, I lost our on a coticule that was a 2x6 by $1 on eBay. The auction ended in the middle of the night, and I didn't want to stay up over it. Anyway, I'm thinking of getting a set of Naniwa Super Stones in 220, 1000, and 4000 followed by a progression on welsh slate and a back Arkansas. For those of you more experienced with these stones, will this work?

It should work, but I have become a fan of the notion that one should start with a full set of synthetics. Hence, I would forgo the 220 and go 1k, 3/8k combo at min. If you can, get the 12k too and then progress to naturals.

Naturals are great and doable, but learning to hone a straight on a "known" grit pays huge when learning.

Originally Posted by earcutter

It should work, but I have become a fan of the notion that one should start with a full set of synthetics. Hence, I would forgo the 220 and go 1k, 3/8k combo at min. If you can, get the 12k too and then progress to naturals.

Naturals are great and doable, but learning to hone a straight on a "known" grit pays huge when learning.

I have to agree with earcutter here. I have the Naniwa 400, 1000, 5000, 8000, 12000 and knowing their grit rating is reassuring .
I've read (never used) that the Welsh slates are difficult to determine their grit rating.

Reading your original post, I'd drop the 220, keep the 1000, get a 5000 instead of the 4000 and add an 8000 and 12000.
This is what works for me and I'm quite happy

It's debatable if you need anything beyond 8k before going to the final finish. I suppose it depends not the finishing stone but it might not be needed. If I'm going the synthetic route, I'll go to a 12k before my 20k. But if I'm going to a Jnat I'll go there after 8k. But unless you're into it for the thrill of the process, I don't see any benefit in using naturals until the finish. And you're likely to have your biggest honing problems at lower grits anyway. Best to keep that stage as controlled as possible. Then, with a good edge already at hand, finish it with a natural (or a fine synthetic) to get the edge that appeals to you.

the set-up you discribe could work, although the 220 is indeed not nessesary, personaly I see the Welsch Slate 3 hone set as three different finishers, not as a progression.

Especially in the beginning you don't want a blade that's to sharp since you don't have the shaving skils yet (I still don't have the skills, if I take my blade to the finest of the tri hone set on oil, and the same goes for water, then strop and shave my skin will feel terible). While comming from the Dragon Tongue I do notice a bit more drag during shaving but no skin iritation afterwards.

if you don't get an 8K you might want to get the 5K instead of the 4K

by the way, I like the naturals but these other guys here are way more experienced then I am and their advice is in all probability a lot more justified

Oops, I goofed. The set is 220, 1000, 5000. The reason I'm looking at it is it's fairly cheap. I will keep looking, though, and comparing prices.

No need for 220. Once you have a 1k you can always decide to get a coarser hone e.g. 400 grit if you'd like that.

A Welsh slate progression? Just one can be useful for around 7k-8k e.g. Dragon's Tongue or a vintage Yellow Lake (don't buy copies), these can be found pretty cheap. An 8k synthetic will work faster but usually costs more.

I've never tried a black Arkansas but I've read they're pretty slow.

When you say they are inexpensive, make sure you are buying FULL SIZE 8X3 in stones. Smaller, thinner stone will make learning to hone more difficult. Eliminate as many variables as possible.

Skip the 220 and get an inexpensive 2x6 in Diamond plate from EBay for correction, for around 10 bucks. As said the 220 will just cause you more problems.

The EBay welsh stone are nice stone and are fun to work with slurry, but the 12k Super Stone is a no-brainer, will last a lifetime and is a fine finisher on its own.

Final Finishing on an Ark, Black or Translucent will give you a very fine shaving edge. Really all you need is a 6 in stone to finish on, if you want to save some money on the ark. Vintage Arks are worth every penny.

You can buy a 1,5,12K full size super stone set for about $170, then all you need is a mentor.