Thread: a smaller Hakka

i just received a nice small Hakka from JNS, has to be the thirstiest Jnat ive ever seen

really soft, too, took under 15 seconds to lap it flat ...


one end has a bit of a line, not fatal imho .. i got it intending to use parts as fingerstone material, and this end is bigger


course now im actually loth to hack at it [this is kinda nice] but this end is smaller


so i might be able to take a thin slice off the bottom, if i'm careful ..

im concerned to varnish the edges tho, to at least stop the water falling through it ..

Urushi lacqeur .. naah, far too dear [or IS it] .. Cashew lacqeur? cant see any, is there any current source?

i have some Liberon Worktop Finish and Seal, a waterbased worktop sealer/varnish

Liberon stuff is usually made from mostly natural materials

hmm .. or this looks good too .. Liberon Special Pale - French Polish (Clear) 250ml

Liberon Special Pale French Polish is a colourless and transparent polish made from the finest quality pale de-waxed shellac and is suitable for the most delicate work

Liberon Worktop Finish and Seal isnt reviewing well, in reports around the net

im rethinking this, i think i want to use a plain ol' shellac, no frills, like this one

CLEAR french polish - Readymade Special Pale Shellac - wood finish 250ml Bottle | eBay

I don't think I'd use shellac as a general sealant on a stone. Shellac doesn't tolerate water and solvents that well. It doesn't get ruined immediately by water, but it gets damaged pretty quickly. If you want to see what I mean, put a sweaty glass on shellac and then watch as the shellac absorbs the water and takes damage.

I'd use a true lacquer. If I didn't know of anything else, I'd find a solvent based brushing lacquer at a hardware store. It won't take much, and apply thin coats (or it will crack). A spar varnish may also work (i've never tried any of them on stones, but I've tried them all on wood). Spar varnish is flexible and tolerates outdoor weather exposure. It's also widely available and not necessarily cheap (about $15 a quart), but it's thick. I'd still take it easy on the coats to prevent crazing and cracking.

that said, a very thirsty stone might not be a good candidate for any kind of lacquer - very porous. It may be better to build a case for it instead to give it support.

that said, a very thirsty stone might not be a good candidate for any kind of lacquer - very porous. It may be better to build a case for it instead to give it support.

hmm.. so get a correct-sized nomi and dig out a channel for it -- hmm--

it may become immediately obvious i'm no chippie

Well, you used the term nomi That's pretty good.

A cheap hardware store chisel would do the job, though, or you could literally just build a box out of components, gluing pieces around the stone on a board. that'd probably make it easier to get a tight fit.

Actually, cutting a tight mortise out of solid wood is steep learning curve for anyone who hasn't done it before. Most things of that size are drilled out and then trimmed clean (if they are done by hand) and have been done that way for a couple of hundred years.

well, im still rethinking this here

i really dont want to mess up any nice old stones [i have a few good ones]

i found urushi-repair-grade Seshime Urushi Lacquer from Japan on da bay

It is also known in Japan that any natural whetstone's backside needs to be reinforced with Urushi paintings. Pure (Seshime) Urushi is applied for this purposes. Depending on how much strength you want, 3--10 painting are normally required. Please remember, one Urushi lacquring takes 4--7 days to dry in a drying cabinet called "Muro," so this can be a long process.

hmm .. i may be some time ..

hm .. i made inquirylast week to a Japanese site that sells urushi-repair-grade Seshime Urushi .. as well as fine

they seem keen, apparently prices have dropped

katana-iimura to me

I would like to inform, Urushi price decline.

Please try to consider it.

"SESHIME URUSHI" Japanese lacquer

guess i can only die once, eh

Those Hakka stones are pretty fast and good prepolishers . I try it as a tomo nagura on a hard base stone and it can very quick bring you from the 1 k to the finish on a finer stone . Wonderfull , gritt loaded stones

Urishi is a PAIN to work with. It's expensive and hard to source but it's the best way to seal a stone IMO. I suggest thinning your first coat with a high grade thinner like Mona Lisa. I've found the best way to apply it is with a cheap foam applicator from the hardware store. Brushes seem to clog up and drag the Urishi rather than spread it. Be sure to wear gloves and use in a well ventilated and dust free area.