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Thread: Is this good advice?
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10-15-2014, 07:20 PM #11
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10-15-2014, 07:49 PM #12
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Thanked: 12Not at all that I don't "trust" him. he is very good at what he does. I am just looking for options since he was unable to give me details on lapping pastes. Probably because he doesn't use them. He has what looks like a couple K worth of stones.
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10-15-2014, 07:56 PM #13
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Thanked: 4826It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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10-15-2014, 08:15 PM #14
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Thanked: 12I have an Illinois #127 strop. the underside of the leather is pretty coarse and fuzzy, obviously because that is where it was cut. So I could use the paste on it even though it is rough?
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10-15-2014, 08:17 PM #15
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Thanked: 4249More importantly before thinking of 12-15k you must master the 4k/8k, read this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html
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10-15-2014, 08:22 PM #16
This is good sound advice
I will add that I advise that guys wait awhile until they give even the 'touching up' a go until they have the basics of stropping, lathering and of course shaving down. If you take the time and see how many new guys ruin a perfectly good professionally honed blade just by incorrect stropping. You can totally mess up an edge 10 times faster with a hone.
It wasn't mentioned in your initial post so I'll ask; did your local help tell you that the Norton 4/8K will need a good lapping before you can use it? If not, he should have.
Back to the 8K edge. I've said this time and time again and I'll keep saying it:
If I were to drop and break my Norton 4/8K I'd eat peanut butter sandwiches day in and day out until I could afford another one. If I were to drop and break my Naniwa 12K and couldn't afford to replace it--I could live off of my 8K edge for the rest of my life.
If you can't get a close, smooth and comfortable shave off the 8K no amount of pastes or higher grit hones will do 'Magic'. As my friend Glen likes to say:
"No amount of money spent on a Stone can ever replace the value of the time it takes learning to use it properly"Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.
Kim X
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10-15-2014, 08:50 PM #17
Back to the original question the OP asked; yes, a pasted line up consisting of one, or a sequnce of many, abrasive strops is a very viable route and will yield fine results. As far as an 8K stone being a shave ready standard I would have to agree with what everyone else has said. Works great, however thereis always something new to try. I am pretty sure that is how your honing mentor got a few grand of stones.
The older I get the more I realize how little I actually know.
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10-15-2014, 08:52 PM #18
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Thanked: 12Yes, he did inform me of the correct method of lapping in the stone. And you have me sold on focusing on the Norton. I have been very successful at stropping my razors. I have approximately 20+ shaves on one razor and it is starting to tug during a shave. That one will be my first attempt at honing.
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10-15-2014, 09:00 PM #19
You can shave off of an 8k just fine. Everything after 4k is pretty much just making the blade smoother and thus the shave smoother. You can maintain a blade for years with just pasted strops (CrOx, FeOx, and carbon black) and never need a finishing stone. People have been doing it that way for over a century.
The hones are just cooler.
CrOx is comparable to 30k grit, so a jump from 8k stone to 30k is going to take a good number of laps (maybe 30 or 40), but it will work. 1 or .5 micron diamond paste would be faster and follow it with CrOx so it is not as harsh.
When I started shaving I was hitting the 12k and 8k stones pretty often. As my technique has improved I only use CrOx about once a month and only use my 12k if I have it out finishing a banged up blade.Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead - Charles Bukowski
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10-15-2014, 10:20 PM #20
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Thanked: 485I've never used paste but the advice is sound. I'd still get a 16k hone, I use my Shapton 16k basically as a 'barbers' hone' for touching up the edge. I use it of course after using the Norton 4/8 (on the very rare occasions I actually have to use the 4/8), but more often use the Shapton 16k to bring the edge back; normally only 10 laps for most of my razors (20 for the harder Swedish steel razors).
I wouldn't get too wrapped up in thinking about the edge of the razor (unless you WANT to) and its fragility, etc. It's all theory and there's a LOT of variables. Just see how you go refreshing the edge on the pasted strop (and later on the 16k) and DOCUMENT what you do. Use your documentation to inform you of what works and what doesn't; not some metallurgy text book or microscope pictures. It's how the razor feels on your face and the job it does that matters, NOT what an edge might look like under a microscope.
I started keeping a honing journal some times ago so I could make reference to it when responding to beginners' queries here. I rotate 6 straights. Referring to the journal tells me I refresh the edge of my razors on the 16k only about 1 every six months OR LESS. However, again, lots of variables, I have quite a light beard growth. But, I know, for me, all I need is a Norton 4/8 (only really used for when I buy another razor) and the 16k (10 to 20 laps as mentioned) and my razors are always in very good condition.
BTW, in addition to this I strop 30/70 each shave with 10/10 post shave. I also stopped applying any sort of oil to my razors (I used to apply eucalyptus oil) and have found no difference whatsoever...
Hope this is of some help.
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