Thread: Charnley Forest hone lapping question

Originally Posted by Utopian

The video was a perfectly good demo of circle and chisel strokes. He did not follow with x-strokes, and he seemed to use the same number of strokes on both sides of the Kamisori, but oh well.

OK, I'll put it back up since it was the only one on there!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf9UY_Hs9SE

Originally Posted by AlexK

Please can u share your honing method on your charnley? Thanks a lot !!!

I haven't finishied on my CF in years...so this is off memory, but I don't use any voodoo magic.

I worked with my CF for quite a while before I figured it out, it was my first IIRC. I started out with mineral oil and felt that it was too thick. Someone mentioned sewing machine oil, I still felt it was too thick. I then started experimenting and found a 50/50 ratio of Kroil and mineral oil works well & then later found Smith's honing solution to be good & it's actually not a oil.

My CF is very fine & I hone on it as I do any other finisher of mine. I hone a razor on a progression of Shapton's to 16K. Then add a4-5 drops of the honing solution on a very clean stone. Then I hone, taking my time, slow strokes, and using a slight x stroke. I use only the blade weight and a high number of passes, say 100. Pay particular attention to how you flip the blade on the stone stone or you can damage the edge. You will notice when honing iwth oil, slow is good so you can feel the blade moving along the surface of your CF.

I'm not sure if a CF actually hones at a microscopic level or if it burnishes, but the end result of a properly honed razor will be a smooth, but very sharp feeling edge...I call it a crisp edge. It's an edge that I need to get back to when I hone up some razors...you made me think about it and like I said...I haven't honed a razor off mine in a long time.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

I haven't finishied on my CF in years...so this is off memory, but I don't use any voodoo magic.

I worked with my CF for quite a while before I figured it out, it was my first IIRC. I started out with mineral oil and felt that it was too thick. Someone mentioned sewing machine oil, I still felt it was too thick. I then started experimenting and found a 50/50 ratio of Kroil and mineral oil works well & then later found Smith's honing solution to be good & it's actually not a oil.

My CF is very fine & I hone on it as I do any other finisher of mine. I hone a razor on a progression of Shapton's to 16K. Then add a4-5 drops of the honing solution on a very clean stone. Then I hone, taking my time, slow strokes, and using a slight x stroke. I use only the blade weight and a high number of passes, say 100. Pay particular attention to how you flip the blade on the stone stone or you can damage the edge. You will notice when honing iwth oil, slow is good so you can feel the blade moving along the surface of your CF.

I'm not sure if a CF actually hones at a microscopic level or if it burnishes, but the end result of a properly honed razor will be a smooth, but very sharp feeling edge...I call it a crisp edge. It's an edge that I need to get back to when I hone up some razors...you made me think about it and like I said...I haven't honed a razor off mine in a long time.

Cool, I'm honing a razor right now & I'm on the 16K. I don't have any Kroil but I do have some Norton honing oil. I might try 50/50 of that.

The key to the oil is that it's not too thick to let the blade come in contact with the stone. Too thick, it just glides over...or hydroplanes. Too thin (try water and you will see what I mean) and the stone doesn't feel buttery smooth.Try the oil straight first, then cut it with a lighter oil...or try the lighter oil. Kroil feels a lot like kerosene on the stone, so you can cut thicker oils with whatever you wish. That Smiths honing solution is good stuff and affordable...I'm a cheapskate.

Originally Posted by engine46

OK, I'll put it back up since it was the only one on there!

Gee, you're a pushover.
You must be married!

+1 on the Smith's Honing Solution

I found it a few years back and haven't switched since, not only it works well but you do NOT have to worry about cross-contamination with your expensive water stones


It is pretty darn cheap too you can often find it at a local hardware store,, be careful as they also make actual Honing "Oil" to that is not water soluble

Smith's HON1-4OZ Honing Solution, 4-Ounce - - Amazon.com



Cheaper yet, some people swear by using Diesel or Kerosene but I wouldn't let it in my house or near my Waterstones after hehehe

Glen, you are the one who got me to using it...I was using the voodoo sauce before.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

The key to the oil is that it's not too thick to let the blade come in contact with the stone. Too thick, it just glides over...or hydroplanes. Too thin (try water and you will see what I mean) and the stone doesn't feel buttery smooth.Try the oil straight first, then cut it with a lighter oil...or try the lighter oil. Kroil feels a lot like kerosene on the stone, so you can cut thicker oils with whatever you wish. That Smiths honing solution is good stuff and affordable...I'm a cheapskate.

I can understand that. If it were to hydroplane it isn't even touching the stone! I know exactly what hydroplaning is & I have experienced it on two wheels......................scary!!!!!!!
I'm going to buy some Smith's right now! I am a believer in gssixgun. Thanks Glen!

Originally Posted by gssixgun

+1 on the Smith's Honing Solution

I found it a few years back and haven't switched since, not only it works well but you do NOT have to worry about cross-contamination with your expensive water stones


It is pretty darn cheap too you can often find it at a local hardware store,, be careful as they also make actual Honing "Oil" to that is not water soluble

Smith's HON1-4OZ Honing Solution, 4-Ounce - - Amazon.com



Cheaper yet, some people swear by using Diesel or Kerosene but I wouldn't let it in my house or near my Waterstones after hehehe

Ordered it. Shipping was free so that was a plus!!!
Thanks Glen & Shooter!

One instruction that isn't real clear on the bottle is how to thin it out a bit if needed

It is water soluble so just a few drops of water will adjust the viscosity for you, each person's style/touch is a little different so that is something you will figure out as you go