Thread: Norton 1k issue

The slight rounding can be nice, because a sharp edge on the hone can damage the razor's edge. Many people bevel their hones for this reason. If yours is becoming rounded just from honing, you must be wearing it away. Maybe that's causing problems for you, though you don't say what sort of problems you're having.

I myself am not a fan of the Norton 1k. I find it to be rather slow. Not sure what you mean, specifically, when you say you are disappointed with it, though.

Buy the naniwa pro series 1K and don't look back

My first stones were cheap taidea stones, full progression. They actually were not too bad and served their purpose for quite some time.
Then I bought some Norton Stones. I didnt care for the Norton 1k or the 4k side of a 4/8 combo. I had to lap a good 1/16-1/8" off the 4k to get rid of the grainy feel of the stone. Very disappointing. They are gone. Honestly I liked my taidea stones better (still have them but dont use them)
I now use a natural progression but I did pick up a makita stone that I believe is made by king which is around 1k and I use it to remove chips etc. Its a great stone and it was only $30 shipped. Its only 6" long but it does a nice job without leaving deep stria in the blade.
I wanted to support a US company but I was disappointed. I will say this after the Nortons I went to natural stones for my full progression and I am glad I did. A lot of fun.

I'm just not getting the sharpness off it as I get from 1K sandpaper.
Before I move onto my 4/8k I look for the razor to shave hairs off my arm with all parts of its edge.
I too bevel the 4 sides of my stones but the roundness is showing beyond these edges.
I guess my 1K may be due to some heavier lapping.

Do you use slurry stones on the Norton 1K?

I use slurry with every hone except the C12k. I have found that the Norton 4k with thick slurry cuts pretty quick and I have switched to it on occasion when I wasn't getting satisfactory results from the Norton 1k. My favorite bevel setter is the Chosera 1k.

The goal of a 1k or any bevel setting stone is just metal removal, to make the bevels flat and to get them to meet. Whatever you use to get there will work, you are not shaving off this edge, just get the bevels to meet in a straight edge.

I have used Norton, Chosera, King, Super Stone, Diamond Plates and Low grit Naturals and they all do the same thing and leave the same edge.

Currently I am using a Nubatama that I like for its speed and shallow stria on the bevel.

But it is really just how a stone feels. Until you get to 6-8k, the edge does not really get straight, so any progression that it takes to get to 8kish, does not matter that much, even sand paper or film.

The problem with paper is the hassle, but it can work well as the grits are very uniform.

You can make large jumps in grit but you pay the price in time on the next stone. 1k stria can be deep.

I intentionally round the edges of my stones and don’t see that as a negative, though I never experienced that with any stone. I do lap before each use and often several times during use.

Is the Ice Bear Nagura OK as a slurry stone?

I do not use slurry with synthetics, I do not see any benefit. You certainly do not need it with any 1K.

I have a 10k Icebear that I used as a finisher before I bought a 12k Super Stone. It is a very nice finisher, very similar results to a 12k SS, but softer feel.

I have used the slurry stones to clean and smooth stones and they work for that, but do not use the slurry.

I have been experimenting with a GS 20k and the dual grit 1 & 3k slurry stone provided. It does seem to improve the face and finish on the GS20 for me.

I did have to do some lapping on the GS to get it to perform. I do not use any slurry, but the finish on the razor is much different, smoother than using a worn diamond plate.

So the short answer is, try it and find a system that works for you. Then perfect it.

I use a lot of unconventional techniques, or at least try them. My progression is a variety of stone brands that works for me.

Really the only stone that matters is the finisher, all the rest just flatten and polish the bevels to get you to your finisher.

You can make the process as complicated or simple as you wish.

For many years I use a Washita, Translucent Ark, and a strop.

If you cannot shave arm hair off your Norton 1k, there is either something wrong with your Norton 1k or something wrong with what you are doing or your arm hair is very different from any I have personally witnessed. You should be able to "pop" arm hairs off the Norton 1k.

Options as I see them are:
Try another Norton 1k.
Meet with someone local to see if you are doing something incorrect.
Meet with someone local to attempt to calibrate you arm hair against theirs.