Results 11 to 19 of 19
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03-02-2015, 11:28 PM #11
The Specialty Stones are ment to be used for "Spray & Go" nothing more and it works well!! And no i do not lap them after every honing, why ?
Thats just total material loss in my thinking....never experienced any bad things happen when touching up on the 10k Stone....probably this depends on the grit of the stone, to lap earlier or later...
Gamma did a review here for further Information:
http://www.tomonagura.com/synthetic-...tones-3k-.html███▓▒░░.RAZORLOVESTONES.░░▒▓███
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03-04-2015, 07:11 PM #12
Why don't you get an high performing barber hone instead??
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03-04-2015, 07:16 PM #13
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Dayton, OH USA
- Posts
- 404
Thanked: 45I am looking to purely do touch-ups and remove the bare minimum amount of metal. My understanding of barber hones is that they can be hit or miss, and given their age (no longer in production) the quality of what I get would really depend on a trustworthy seller. Buying a new, reputable high-grit stone will alleviate a few of the "what-ifs" for me so I can focus on technique.
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03-05-2015, 01:48 PM #14
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Dayton, OH USA
- Posts
- 404
Thanked: 45My gear arrived last evening. I soaked the stone for about 25 minutes then marked with a pencil and lapped it under running water. I also took some metal to the lapping plate beforehand and didn't see any tangible scratching on the 12k when finished. I do see Lynn's point about the stone and plate "sticking" a bit and now have a pretty good feel for avoiding that.
I took out my "challenged" razor for a touch-up to get a feel for the process. Unfortunately that particular razor has a LOT of hone wear and doesn't seem to hone well in general, especially near the shoulder. It did get a bit better, but alas I think that one is not really in need of a touch up but rather some deeper work...so I moved on to a decent razor that needed a bit more than pasted balsa.
The TI I put on the stone seemed to really "wake up" after about 10 laps (C135 blade), so I gave it 2 more (12 total) then took it to pasted balsa and leather. What a difference! The shave was just like when the razor was fresh out of the box. I have one more razor that just needs a slight touch up at this point, so I will give that one a go and see what happens!
Granted I am not setting bevels or repairing chips...but I do think the fear of really messing something up is vastly overstated. Watching the videos, taking one's time, and really paying attention to process seem to make this relatively easy, or at least far more so than I thought going into it. Once I get this dialed in and get a bit more technique...perhaps the combo stones are next!
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03-05-2015, 03:18 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 458For touch up? A single japanese barbershop (natural) stone with tomonagura, and a vintage linen. Linen once per week, the japanese barber stone once maybe every 20-30 weeks for five minutes. that's it. A very favorable combo for keeping the razor sharp without imparting much wear on it.
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03-05-2015, 03:24 PM #16
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Dayton, OH USA
- Posts
- 404
Thanked: 45
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03-05-2015, 03:35 PM #17
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 458Yes, it'll be just fine. If you're like the rest of us, you'll probably buy more stuff in the future out of want, but not need.
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03-05-2015, 04:06 PM #18
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Dayton, OH USA
- Posts
- 404
Thanked: 45
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03-06-2015, 06:30 PM #19
I would suggest a coticule, there are many vendors out there that can sell you one that is suitable for straight razors. The great thing about these stones is that as a beginner you can use them simply with water and light x stokes to refresh, and as you advance and wish to do more work on an edge, use slurry.