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Thread: Honing Question

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  1. #1
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Default Honing Question

    Hi, I have a question.
    Why is it considered better practice to hone with less strokes rather than more?
    I have recently cut down my honing regime to fewer strokes , just enough to replace the previous scratch marks but the end result is an unacceptable edge, even though the bevel looks great.
    I look forward to your replies , thanks untold amounts

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    Well the rational is to conserve steel. If you are not achieving a sharable edge you are not going far enough. Perhaps it's more about your optics and use of them than it is about the number of strokes done.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    The number of strokes depends on the blade, some take less some take more.
    In general we do not want to do more strokes than needed on the next level. I go by visual clues to determine when I am ready to move to the next grit.
    Stefan

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Keeping this a simple as possible


    Keep in mind we are talking about Sub-Micron measurements here.

    You want to "Sneak Up" on the final edge, so starting at the bevel set you want to get the two side to kiss and become one sharp point without going past that (this takes however many laps as it takes).. If you keep honing away steel you start to dig deeper into the steel BEHIND the Fin, this weakens the very edge and will lead to a harsh/fragile edge.. This is also why we tend to tell people to ease up on pressure and try to not go below the 1k hone when setting the bevel (there are tricks for Edge Restoration that have little to do with honing)
    You are trying to create a full smooth bevel with the most shallow of scratches you can possibly get..
    As you start to climb the grit ladder again you simply are trying to gently remove the deeper scratches and smooth up the full bevel, remember they is only so much steel to remove, so you want to slowly remove it and smooth the bevel..


    Remember that on most razors that the bevel is actually quite flexible, so it is very possible to cut steel behind the Fin, try not to do that

    Gently smoothly slowly, is the trick to a nice edge

    at least IME

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    So there is a common trap, what does the bevel look like (Polished bevel)?

    What matters is the edge, yes the smoother the bevel, the straighter the edge, (Generally), but a smooth bevel with a jagged edge does you no good. Deep stria will make a jagged edge.

    First look at the edge, are the bevels meeting, straight and chip free.

    Remember you will not get a super straight edge until after an 8K, so don’t waste steel trying to do so at 1-4k.

    At 8k you need enough pressure and laps to remove stria and straighten the edge. You have to look at both the edge and the bevel.

    If you go too far, just joint the edge, (lightly drag the edge on the corner of the stone), and re set it on a high grit stone (8K). You don’t have to go back to 1k

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    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Thanks guys,
    I'll tell you why I ask.
    I've been given some advise by a pro, that is to set the bevel then set the bevel again, to make sure its set.
    This lead me to believe that you cannot overset the bevel, so I have been super setting the bevel for want no a better expression. However this has lead to my edges being weak and unstable.
    Also to do minimal strokes, just enough to replace the scratches.
    So I guess I'm just spending way too much time over setting the bevel which in turn means no matter what I do there after the edge is still weak from too much 1k.
    And I suppose when you change so many aspects at once its hard to figure out where the problem is.

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