Thread: Help me with my Norton

Originally Posted by UKRob

I would say that you are trying to remove the grid. By drawing a grid you will identify the low lying points on your hone - the only way to get down to these is by removing all the surrounding material. When you have done this your hone should be flat.

By the way, if you have some remaining pencil marks at the ends of you stone - don't worry as it's quite common for synthetic stones to taper slightly at the very ends.

Maybe I was not clear enough. What I mean is do not try to remove the grid a spot at a time. You need the whole stone flat. Sanding one spot to get rid of the grid is not going to work. I draw a grid and test the stone after 10 strokes. Keep checking it. Wipe of the grid and draw a new one. Keep sanding until the stone is flat.

Originally Posted by aBam916

Not taping the spine. im learning on my whipped dog vintage. My first hone on the stone but i lapped with sandpaper i taped to a wood block. But on the 4k side it even acted like it was maybe uneven. Like the 2cm from the edge had this type of marking all the way down and even though the water placement followed my razor and stroke, i would get this type of "scuff" in certain spots only.

Edit: the only reason i ask is because referencing to lynn abrams video on his norton he just gets a nice slurry with no scuffing stuck to the stone so why is mine?

It might "scuff" in only one spot because of how the blade is shaped or the hone wear. You said you were trying on a vintage whipped dog. They aren't beauties he sells. Who knows what condition the blade is in. You should show us more pictures of the blade. Both sides reflecting light etc.

Also make sure your stroke is dead flat and even. Not lifting the heel or toe as you go.

For a very inexpensive lapping tool, I tape the wet/dry sandpaper around a plate of glass taken from an unused picture frame. I use PhatMan's steps, above.

If I get "scuffing" after that, I might look at whether I'm putting the blade's shoulder to the hone.

Read / Watch / Learn more then you ever wanted to know about the Norton 4/8 including how to lap


http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html

Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER

It might "scuff" in only one spot because of how the blade is shaped or the hone wear. You said you were trying on a vintage whipped dog. They aren't beauties he sells. Who knows what condition the blade is in. You should show us more pictures of the blade. Both sides reflecting light etc.

Also make sure your stroke is dead flat and even. Not lifting the heel or toe as you go.

On top of that he the razor may or may not have been taped. You would need to ask Larry.

I tried so much and it still does it. I try different angles. I relapped with the correct paper on a level surface quite a bit. Also tried different angles and strokes... still same results. I feel defeated
NOTE: I think the blade im using is the issue which sucks because i wanted to learn on this before the dovo or aust i have in the mail. Ill get pics of the blade soon but im seeing that the blade i have has a natural smile to the edge but looks its meant to be there..

I think you have a couple of competing possible issues here.

1) is the stone perfectly flat. Plenty of excellent advice above

2) how does the razor lay against the stone. As Andrew and Ed both mentioned, the way the blade contacts the stone could cause the patterns you are seeing on the hone's face. A smiling blade will benefit from a rolling x-stroke which makes sure that the entire edge contacts the hone at some point of the stroke. Without that, if you were to take your blade which you say has a natural smile and just lay it down on the stone, you will probably see that the edge contacts the stone at the wide part of the smile while the heel and toe do not. This could cause the pattern shown in your photo.

The most important question hasn't been asked though: regardless of how the hone looks, how is the edge?

You started theread by saying you're a newbie honer - no-one has yet asked the question as to how new are you to using a straight razor?

The reason I raise this is that if you are inexperienced with straight razors generally, then why are you even trying to hone one?

Get to use one, learn about stropping, then get better at using your razor, then get better at stropping and then, if you decide you like it - and only then, think about hones.

Originally Posted by UKRob

You started theread by saying you're a newbie honer - no-one has yet asked the question as to how new are you to using a straight razor?

The reason I raise this is that if you are inexperienced with straight razors generally, then why are you even trying to hone one?

Get to use one, learn about stropping, then get better at using your razor, then get better at stropping and then, if you decide you like it - and only then, think about hones.

Again.. like i said. I have more than one razor and the main one i SHAVE with i only strop and will send out for hones. But why not learn to hone now? Especially if it a blade im not needing to shave with?

Edit: i meant that by i have and used to hone a lot of knives so i have the concept pretty well but straights are a new beast.

Originally Posted by Cangooner

I think you have a couple of competing possible issues here.

1) is the stone perfectly flat. Plenty of excellent advice above

2) how does the razor lay against the stone. As Andrew and Ed both mentioned, the way the blade contacts the stone could cause the patterns you are seeing on the hone's face. A smiling blade will benefit from a rolling x-stroke which makes sure that the entire edge contacts the hone at some point of the stroke. Without that, if you were to take your blade which you say has a natural smile and just lay it down on the stone, you will probably see that the edge contacts the stone at the wide part of the smile while the heel and toe do not. This could cause the pattern shown in your photo.

The most important question hasn't been asked though: regardless of how the hone looks, how is the edge?

1. Ya it is true as of now when i grid and then lap evenly it takes all the graphite off at the same speed and is consistant
2. Yes i figure it is this vintage blade. the blade smiles so im learning to x stroke or do smiling strokes and not so much of the straight pass and or passes that in my mind are meant for a equally flat laying blade while honing