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Thread: Can I use DMT 220 to lap?

  1. #21
    Moderator rolodave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecormier View Post
    I'm looking at an 8"x3" and I knew it would flatten fast, I'm just concerned about the remaining surface (as has been mentioned) and it's about $100

    which DMT are you referencing?

    This Coarse DMT is $60
    Buy DMT Dia-Sharp, 8" x 3" Bench Stone, Coarse at Woodcraft.com
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  2. #22
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rolodave View Post
    which DMT are you referencing?

    This Coarse DMT is $60
    Buy DMT Dia-Sharp, 8" x 3" Bench Stone, Coarse at Woodcraft.com
    $60 USD is like $100 CAD. That's the crap I gotta deal with everytime I make a purchase from my brothers to the south.

  3. #23
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Yes you have to grid the stone several times and lap in different directions, to get to flat.

    I use a kid’s pencil one of those ½ in pencils with very soft lead that leaves a dark thick line, flat carpenter pencils also work well. Mark the stone and do one lap, then look at the stone and see what has been removed, those are the high spots.

    I lap from corner to corner then top to bottom. Then re mark the grit, spin the stone 180 degrees and do another lap and look. If you do not do several laps, the slurry alone will remove the grid, but the stone is not flat.

    Keep gridding and lapping until the first lap removes all the pencil grid, then smooth the stone face with finer diamond plates or low grit synthetic stone. A progression goes a lot faster, carbide stone also work well for smoothing a stone face.

    The CKTG 140 grit, sells for 30 bucks and works very well. It is a thick heavy plate, and pretty flat. I have had mine over a year and done a bunch stones with it.
    Last edited by Euclid440; 04-04-2015 at 03:21 PM.
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    Senior Member Scareface's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecormier View Post
    thanks, but that wasn't the question
    I know it wasn't the question!
    Mine was more like a suggestion.
    Euclid440 and ecormier like this.
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  5. #25
    Senior Member ecormier's Avatar
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    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Nice, congrats

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  8. #27
    King of the Shorties Aldwyn's Avatar
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    I am ammending my statement.

    My DMT220 seems to be tearing up my Chosera 1K! Seems to work fine on my Ninawa SS, but leaves all sorts of scratches and roughness on my Chosera!

    Going to need to find another way to flatten that one out I suppose... time for another thread, perhaps.
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  9. #28
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aldwyn View Post
    I am ammending my statement.

    My DMT220 seems to be tearing up my Chosera 1K! Seems to work fine on my Ninawa SS, but leaves all sorts of scratches and roughness on my Chosera!

    Going to need to find another way to flatten that one out I suppose... time for another thread, perhaps.
    Have you thought about using a moderate pressure at first and then transitioning to "weight of the hone" strokes. I find that using those combined with back and forth strokes especially when finishing leaves a surface with no random scratches or roughness. I never use circles when finishing up lapping, only in the beginning. I use a DMT DIA-FLAT as well so that's an XXC. It leaves no scratches or roughness just a smooth surface, always worth a try. Hope it helps.
    Last edited by s0litarys0ldier; 04-10-2015 at 01:46 AM. Reason: I said edge instead of surface. DUH

  10. #29
    King of the Shorties Aldwyn's Avatar
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    Its the plate. I must have hosed a section while working with a pesky W&B (all my W&Bs seem to be a PitA to hone). A new one is on its way... live and learn.
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  11. #30
    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    Aldwyn,

    In my experience, all the DMT plates need a good break-in. This removes the 'high' spots and 'loose' diamonds from the surface.

    I use a block of hardened 1095 steel for this - others have used the shanks of screw-drivers etc.

    It doesn't seem to matter what the 'grit' rating is of the plates, they all need the break in.

    My extra-extra fine used to leave quite bad scratches on my knives when it was new - scratches that were deeper than the fine plate left.

    After a good break-in, all was well. Since then, all new diamond plates I buy get this break-in.

    Have fun

    Best regards

    Russ

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