Thread: New Hones

Originally Posted by MikeT

I just finally snapped! Maybe I've been intimidated to really start honing, just been dabbling.. So I just ordered a Norton 1k 4k/8k starter set. So far it's been just messing around with some very good condition Carborundum hones that I found at antique stores... with unsatisfactory results.
Now I know that the stone doesn't make the master.. but also that good stones make a difference.
A year ago I found an Escher at an antique store in Indiana for $5! Five bucks! I didn't know anything about hones at that point until I started reading up. So I will not use it of course until I am able to get a blade to the point that it needs to be to go to a finisher...
So now I'm watching the videos and reading up and will be practicing daily.

Are the Carborundum hones labeled? Not all of them are for razors. The ones that ARE for razors are labeled as razor hones on their boxes. If they are labeled as sharpening hones, then they are not for razors. Carborundum razor hones can create very good edges. If you have a problem using them, then you may have a problem using the Nortons. Of course, though, it all starts at the bevel so if you started with a dull razor you may not have done enough with the Carborundum and in that case the Norton 1k may become your new best friend.

Yep, my fear came true. Trying to set the bevel an my WH Morely, and sure enough I'm getting pitting in the bevel.
I'll keep working it and see if I can get to some clean metal. I was encouraged to see a nice even bevel though, which I thought was good for my first time...

Originally Posted by ChopperDave

Does anyone think I need another stone, between the 3/8k? Or the 8/12k?

Popular consensus seems to be that bevel setting is most important on the Chosera, and the rest is polishing the bevel. So it would seem the 3/8/12k would be a decent progression. I have a usb microscope (kinda crappy, but if you get it focussed, it'll show you a bevel) and a 60x loupe so that I can monitor the condition of the bevel. I also have several cheap razors that I have aquired lately to practice on...

You sound like you are in the same place as me, with the same stones even! I asked the same question not too long ago, here is the thread. Happy honing

Originally Posted by ChopperDave

Yep, my fear came true. Trying to set the bevel an my WH Morely, and sure enough I'm getting pitting in the bevel.
I'll keep working it and see if I can get to some clean metal. I was encouraged to see a nice even bevel though, which I thought was good for my first time...

Been doing some studying up, working on my honing skills... This pitting in the bevel is what I'm wondering about. How much is okay? And how important is it to have a bevel without any pitting, as long as the edge the blade is perfectly smooth?
If there is already a thread, I'm sorry for the redundant question, could anybody point me the right direction?
Thanks so much,
M

Mike I'm not sure about other threads, you would have to do a search, but...

In my noob mind, if you have pitting in the bevel, no matter how sharp you get it, the edge is liable to fall apart and chip as soon as you use the razor.

Originally Posted by ChopperDave

Mike I'm not sure about other threads, you would have to do a search, but...

In my noob mind, if you have pitting in the bevel, no matter how sharp you get it, the edge is liable to fall apart and chip as soon as you use the razor.

That is what I heard too. I also heard that if you have pitting on the edge, there is no way to tell how deep it goes so that is not good! Unless you get lucky enough to sharpen all the pitting off, it might be a lost cause!

Thanks for the replies, that makes sense to me.
Got new Norton set in the mail, last night stayed up until the wee hours sharpening. Been watching videos by gssixgun and Lynn, and when I was looking closely the edge I remembered what you wrote so I kept working the bevel... and I lucked out! Clean even bevel.
First time using good stones, used method I learned from YouTube, finished with my Escher (the one I found for 5 bucks at antique..) and then shaved..... so sharp! I'm so excited! Really. I feel like I've graduated to a new level.
Sharpened 3 more razors 2 of which needed complete bevel creation!
Thanks for everyone who contributed your know how!

Good job Mike!

Depends on why it is pitted, if it’s from cell rot, you may not find steel that will hold an edge, unless you remove some steel.
I have one razor with some pitting near and on the bevel but is well clear of the edge, it’s not from cell rot. It has been like that for years and as long as it does not touch the edge, is fine.

In my rotation it will probably never see another full bevel re-set and so little steel will be removed from the edge, that it does not matter.

So, as long as you can get a good, straight edge is all that matters really, but if it bothers you, remove enough steel to get a solid bevel and edge.