Thread: recent found, unknown hone

hi everyone,

i found yesterday morning a hone, with a powerfull oil smell. it was broken in its case.

the hone seems like a cretan hone but i'm not sure. also i thought if i can use it as a last hone after coticule like a 10k hone?


here some pics of it;;




any idea is welcome

Cretan aka Turkey oilstone for shure

thanks for reply. than it's only about 5-6k am i right?

it is a Turkish oil stone as Rusen said, very nice fast hone.... mostly it is not a finisher I owned two the first one isn’t razor grade finisher and can be used for honing progression, the other one was a finisher. ( Sold )





you can use the broken parts as slurry stones, and no i don't think that this stone will improve Coti edge.

Originally Posted by AljuwaiedAK

you can use the broken parts as slurry stones, and no i don't think that this stone will improve Coti edge.

thanks for you comment. than i can use it just before coti. thanks for your advices

Originally Posted by Oustoura

thanks for you comment. than i can use it just before coti. thanks for your advices

I think the best thing to do is to Check if it improve the edge of your Coticlule or degrade it, I read that some of these can reach 8k with oil ( I use water only ).

The finest of my two stones had those white inclusions, maybe yours is a finisher too with all of these inclusions ( not sure if that means anything ) try and give us your feedback

Nice rare stone, hope you enjoy playing with it.

No it fits in the progretion right between 3 k and a finisher . It is vertisaile stone but gives very agresive sharp edge .
Your is good , i have similar . It caused me an arm and a leg \ litre of blood and square meter of skinn | ha ha ha

Originally Posted by RusenBG

Your is good , i have similar . It caused me an arm and a leg \ litre of blood and square meter of skinn | ha ha ha

i'm sorry for you

but thanks for your advices and informations. i will give it a try before and after coti to see its effects in the bevel.
certanly give some feed back after the try. for now i'm fixing the broken parts, then i will need a week to make it usable.

well i repaste the broken pieces. i don't have any electric saw so i musted to leave it as it is. i think i can still use it.

here a pic.

so as you told me, i will use it just before coticule. maybe monday i will have a chance to give it a try. do you also think if i can use it with water?

Nice job the stone looks great, according to my knowledge that the best ones used to have a French label, maybe someone can help us here with more information...

Sure why not, you can use it with water if there's still oil on the hone just soak it in alcohol if you can afford large quantity for several days, or just buy a car brakes cleaner /degreaser it is very effective and efficient especially if the stone is porous like the Turkish stones, I recommend that you put the stone first in a container so when you spray the brake cleaner it accumulate in the container and soak the stone in the same time, make sure to brush it during cleaning to removed any clogged dirt which may prevent the degreaser from penetrating the stone, when you are satisfied with the stone clean it very carefully with a dishes soap preferably one with antibacterial as you will you the stone for honing razors.

Here is a post were I have described my way of cleaning in greater detail:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...-i-find-2.html

Now for why I prefer water it easier to hone with slurry and cleaner, it's more than the contamination that I'm worried about, I didn't want to bore you with the explanation, but since you have brought the subject, the Water glycerine solution or oil give a finer scratch pattern due to it higher viscosity which create a slightly larger cushion between the blade and the stone serfuce, this larger cushion will elevate the blade to a point where it barely touch's the very tip of the abrasive materials and the more finer the scratch pattern gose the elevation increase's and the tips of the abrasive materials became even more dull and give even finer scratch pattern until the suction became so great that more honing became counterproductive, as you will need to increase the power of your honing or the pressure either you will microchip the edge at this point if the steel is brittle or you will degrade your scratch pattern with softer steel, I agree that with enough hand skill you can have sharper finer edges form the stone using a relatively higher viscosity fluids than water, and that's why Japanese carpenters use a substance (I forgot what it's name) to increase the viscosity of water to hone their plane iron blades for the competition of the thinnest longest wood shave. However such approach will prevent you from knowing the approximate size of the stone grit partcals, decrease the stone speed, and make your hands less skilful in obsessive water finishing , and since I am testing a stone the first two things are very important to get an accurate figure of where to list the stone among the other stones. In short words, my goal is to obtain the best of what the stone grit has to offer while minimising the interference of the lubrication medium in the process as possible, in fact if the alcohol isn't evaporate almost instantly I might trid it for honing due it lower viscosity.

I hope that you don't think that I have sort of mental illness or disorder by now, but I am really an obssive when it comes to honing and stones if it for the BBS Shaves I can get those with one stone and one razor for the rest of my life, but the learning that is associated with whole thing is what drawn me to this hobby.

If you don't have as much stones as I am and would like to get the best edge from that stone use 1 to 10 water glycerine solution and ignore everything I said above


Happy honing,