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Thread: Arkansas Translucent preparation

  1. #1
    Senior Member Longhaultanker's Avatar
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    Default Arkansas Translucent preparation

    I just ordered one hard black Arkansas 4x1 5/8 and one translucent (same dimensions) pocket stones from Dan's Whetstones. I've watched several YouTube vids and read several threads here. I'm excited to try them, but I've got a couple questions.

    1. I've read some people take wet/dry high grit sandpaper (1k, higher) to smoothe them out. Is this necessary? Sales person I spoke to said it wasn't; they are lapped and guaranteed flat. Some say they need a breaking in, hence the sandpaper. I informed sales rep the stones would be used for straight razors.

    2. I've read Arkansas stones will tear up a diamond lapping plate. I've got the Shapton glass lapping plate. Please opine.

    3. Will a regular Norton lapping plate work on these stones?

    4. So I use J&J baby oil to protect my razors. These stones use mineral oil to hone. I've read some use Neetsfoot oil. Any reason baby oil can't / shouldn't be used? Neetsfoot?

    As a truck driver on the road I think these stones will make a great addition to my road bag.

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    Senior Member Bazz's Avatar
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    never lapped one so cant help ya there plenty info on it here via search , another alternative to oil is glycerin and a little water clean no odor and works as good as oil for me on knives , cant see why baby oil wouldnt be just as good

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    Pasted Man Castel33's Avatar
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    Baby oil is mineral oil with scent so will be fine.

    If it comes flat you should be alright by going straight to burnishing it. Burnish it using a steel block or knife to rub all over the stone

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    Even if it is guaranteed flat, if you want the most out of the Trans, you are chasing smooth, not flat. I think some wet dry and subsequent burnishing with some hard steel would be a good idea

    The shapton might work, but I'd be careful still. I would only use light pressure and keep the plate just covered by water in the sink as per gssixguns video on lapping. You might not need to do this though if it really is flat.

    It will tear through a Norton lapping stone without sweating.

    Baby oil is usually very refined mineral oil, so that should be fine.

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    You want it lapped as finely as you can. If the stone is not flat, true it with sic powder on a granite or float glass plate till it is pretty much there and then switch off to wet dry on a plate to ensure it is dead flat. Lap it up to 2 or 3k wet dry if you can get it. If you have something like a Belgian blue whetstone, slurry it all over the surface, but if not don't worry about it and just begin burnishing the surface with blades, chisels, razors. You want it like a mirror basically. To finish a razor, 2-300 laps depending on size. The edges are amazing

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    Forgot to add you should true both sides and have one side be mirrored for razors, and keep the other side periodically roughed up with fine wet dry and decidedly non-mirrored for knives. Best of both worlds for a travel stone.
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    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    Just a quick couple comments.
    1) you bought the ludicrously expensive Shapton lapping plate?
    2) there is no way in hell I would even attempt to lap something as hard as a trans ark on it.
    3) I found the surface of my dans black(also ultra fine, God rest it's soul, it's in a better place) flat enough, checked it on the back of my DMT. The burnishing is what takes the longest time.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Once properly prepped, they will perform perfectly fine with water and or a couple drops of Smith’s Honing Solution. Mineral oil works well but is messy and gets rancid and smelly. It can be washed off but the Smith’s works just as well without the hassle.

    I would grid the stone and lap it on any stone to see if it is flat, if not then depending how far out of flat it is, decide how to correct it. I would not put any diamond plate to an Ark.

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    You can totally get away with water with a trans and razors. It would take forever to clog a trans finishing razors on it. You will get a finer result buffering the water with something else though. You could always use water and put two or three peas of dish soap as well. That works fine. Just control the amount of moisture as you go. Oil and water soluble solutions as well, obviously.
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    Senior Member Longhaultanker's Avatar
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    I'm enjoying the replies, and learning too. Remember, I'll be using these pocket Arkansas stones in my truck while on the long hauls, primarily as touch up, refresh. Things I'm learning:
    1. While flat is important, it's smoothness I'm seeking.
    2. Burnishing is that quality of smoothness which takes wet / dry sandpaper to achieve, using 1-3k or higher.
    3. I like the water and dish soap idea, but a bit messy and impractical in the cab / sleeper of my truck on the road. Few drops of baby oil I already carry, wipe off / clean with paper towel. I read some where for deep cleaning, let soak in simple green, wash off, good as new.
    4. No diamond lapping plate to these Ark. stones. Will destroy Norton's plate too. Suggested to lap on a honing stone. What grits are suitable? I have Shapton glass 500 through 30k. (They work great, btw, but that's for when I'm home).

    Help me to understand the burnishing technique, end result better.

    Thanks for all the input.

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