Thread: In the market for hone(s) at a good affordable price

Originally Posted by LawsonStone

What I don't like about the Norton stones is the requirement of immersing them, soaking them. .

This only true of the 4k and 1k norton. The 8k can be wetted down and used.

The thing that really turns me off the Norton hones is how soft they are. I wasn't paying attention my first time lapping it, and very nearly wore half the 4k side away on the lapping hone. And the last time I lapped it and smoothed it out, there was a piece of mystery trash on the sand paper that left a nice, deep, half inch long scratch on the face with the first forward push on the paper.

I know this is all user error, and If I bought another, it might well last a lifetime now that I know to be more careful. But it's still somewhat unforgiving and easy to foul up - especially for razor honing.

Originally Posted by LawsonStone

What I don't like about the Norton stones is the requirement of immersing them, soaking them. I like the Naniwas because you can just wet them and hone. I use a spray bottle. Also, I suggest getting razors initially honed professionally. Then when they need freshening, get a Naniwa 12K. Eventually, you'll need more than just freshening the edge, and you can get the Naniwa 8K. As the honing of the razor "ages" you will find you want to sharpen more substantial, and the Naniwa 3K or 5K can be gotten, and ultimately when you are ready to set bevels, the 1K. That kind of gradual process will give you about 2 years of patient, gradual building of expertise that won't cost you a lot all at once. Learn to freshen an edge with the 12K; then learn to renew the edge with the 8K or 10k; then learn to re-sharpen the edge with the 3K or 5K; then you learn actually to create the edge, the bevel, with the 1K.

That is very good advice.

You can use a good Barber Hone, but the real good ones are almost the price of a 12k and lesser ones are a crapshoot.

Really, there are only a hand-full of synthetic stones that work with razors. You may have more success with a good diamond plate to lap and maintain a stone. Norton’s have been used very successfully to hone razors for years and are still a great value. A soaked stone will load up less than a splash and go stone, so there is a trade-off and they only need a few minutes of soaking. If you are just maintaining a hand full of razors, it’s not that big a deal.

A few good synthetic are all you need and will be a lifetime purchase. Do buy proven, razor quality stones, trying to save a few dollars with unknown or small inexpensive stones will not produce acceptable results. Of the proven stones, brand name does not matter that much, they all will produce a shave ready edge.

If cost is an issue, a Norton 4/8 or Naniwa 3/8k and 12k Super Stone for about $150 are all you will need, and will produce the exact same results.

Originally Posted by Marshal

The thing that really turns me off the Norton hones is how soft they are. I wasn't paying attention my first time lapping it, and very nearly wore half the 4k side away on the lapping hone. And the last time I lapped it and smoothed it out, there was a piece of mystery trash on the sand paper that left a nice, deep, half inch long scratch on the face with the first forward push on the paper.

I know this is all user error, and If I bought another, it might well last a lifetime now that I know to be more careful. But it's still somewhat unforgiving and easy to foul up - especially for razor honing.

The 4k is not that soft and lapping should involve the use of pencil grid lines, watching for their removal, and then stopping. Sorry but paying attention should have been a given. What grit of paper were you using?

Originally Posted by Utopian

The 4k is not that soft and lapping should involve the use of pencil grid lines, watching for their removal, and then stopping. Sorry but paying attention should have been a given. What grit of paper were you using?

I was using the Norton lapping hone. What threw me off was starting with the Guangxi hone, and using my experience lapping that as a base for lapping the rest. So I set to work lapping it like it was the Guangxi expecting it to take an hour before I even started to see results. Hence the reason I wasn't paying attention, I was just on auto pilot rubbing the hones together. When I turned it around the marks were gone, along with half the stone. Needless to say I was more attentive with the 8k side of the hone. I've also scratched into it playing with a pocket knife. Like I said, entirely user error.

Originally Posted by LawsonStone

What I don't like about the Norton stones is the requirement of immersing them, soaking them. I like the Naniwas because you can just wet them and hone. I use a spray bottle. Also, I suggest getting razors initially honed professionally. Then when they need freshening, get a Naniwa 12K. Eventually, you'll need more than just freshening the edge, and you can get the Naniwa 8K. As the honing of the razor "ages" you will find you want to sharpen more substantial, and the Naniwa 3K or 5K can be gotten, and ultimately when you are ready to set bevels, the 1K. That kind of gradual process will give you about 2 years of patient, gradual building of expertise that won't cost you a lot all at once. Learn to freshen an edge with the 12K; then learn to renew the edge with the 8K or 10k; then learn to re-sharpen the edge with the 3K or 5K; then you learn actually to create the edge, the bevel, with the 1K.

Haven't heard a strategy for learning and beginning to hone and maintain your own razors put more succinctly than this...perfect!

How long do the naniwas last?

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Originally Posted by Rdefreitas

How long do the naniwas last?

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Once you learn how to keep a great edge off of your strop, and all your maintaining is your own razors,,, a couple of lifetimes. Doing 10 or so laps on a 12k once every few months you won't see any wear. Tc

I heard those BBB hones are something special. I have always wanted one of those and a lakeside.