Results 21 to 30 of 34
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12-22-2015, 07:45 PM #21
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
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- Rochester, MN
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Thanked: 3795
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12-22-2015, 07:54 PM #22
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 143
Thanked: 32
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12-23-2015, 03:49 AM #23
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12-23-2015, 05:48 AM #24
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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- 6,553
Thanked: 3215Once smooth take it to 1 or 2k to get as smooth as possible. Put the stone on a low table or counter where you can put your body weight on the tool.
I use soapy water on a cookie sheet to contain the water and use a carbon steel cleaver, so I can grab on with both hands. The cleaver concentrates all the pressure on the knife edge. The higher you finish with W&D the less you have to burnish.
You are after as smooth a finish as possible, like Dacaddo’s. I start on one end and just rub the stone with a lot of pressure do 2-3 inches at a time, about 20 laps, then move down and do another 2-3 inches until you have done the whole stone face, then add a squirt of soapy water and go back up. Keep going until you have a glass like finish.
The good news, you only have to do it once, if it need more, do more laps. You do not slurry a finish Ark, Hone on water, Smith’s honing solution or mineral oil and WD40. A burnished finish last forever, the more you hone the more burnished it becomes. Do not use this stone face for knives or tools. If you want to use the stone for other tools, flip it over, and use that side, protect it with rubber drawer liner.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
ultrasoundguy2003 (12-23-2015)
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12-23-2015, 09:25 AM #25
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- NYC, NY
- Posts
- 1,496
Thanked: 169Never slurry an ark. Bring an edge up to a 12k level and do 200-300 laps on the ark with oil or the water soluble buffer of your choice. Ark edges are just about the most forgiving edges relative to how boosted they are.
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12-23-2015, 02:38 PM #26
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Posts
- 143
Thanked: 32Sorry. I use an old carbon steel kitchen cleaver I picked up at a flea market. I take the stones surface as high as possible with W/D and then burnish with the cleaver and water. Pressure will speed things up, but be careful...I've scratched a few in the past using too much pressure.
Once you get it razor ready I wouldn't slurry anything on it. Like Euclid said you can use the other side of the stone if you want to play around with nagura or other slurry stones. I've tried slurry on a trans...wasn't for me.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dcaddo1 For This Useful Post:
ultrasoundguy2003 (12-23-2015)
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12-23-2015, 02:47 PM #27
Thank-you all for your direction an input.
I will put all this to use. It might take some time but when I get it burnished I will post pics.
Euclid440 Simple Green and a Scotch Bright pad cleaned it up very well.
I could not have gotten this far without you gentlemen.
It is lapped and in good condition now it is cleaned.
I had no idea how to burnish correctly before this.
Simply stated and to the point directions are greatly appreciated from all.Your only as good as your last hone job.
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12-26-2015, 09:35 PM #28
OK tell me feedback
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feels good. Going to give it a try.Your only as good as your last hone job.
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12-27-2015, 01:30 AM #29
Feedback on what,, the stone or your technique?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Hirlau For This Useful Post:
ultrasoundguy2003 (12-27-2015)
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12-27-2015, 01:43 AM #30
I have a really sharp meatcleaver. The rest is up for debate. Once the WD40 evaperated It is not as shiny.
Still glows in the dark after held to the light though. Man you got me with my mouth open catchin flies on that one.Your only as good as your last hone job.